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This is an archive article published on December 25, 2005

Best Tango in Paris

Once you’re done with the digestive exercise, and if you have unfettered access to your spouse’s platinum card, you must go to the...

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THERE’S no better excuse for gifts than Christmas. But if you keep friends with brand queens, for whom there is no such thing as just another birthday celebration, holiday or shopping experience, average gifts are a not-easily-forgotten faux pas. Last year, I raided the Village in New York, this year had to top that. There’s no better place on the shopping itinerary that’s more fun for the shopper than Paris. Even if you’ve missed the fabulous price tags of the summer and winter sales, the city’s sexy enough to inspire bouts of altruism.

My version of a one-dayer began with a visit to Palais Royal on the 1st Arrondissement, where I took a stroll around Galerie de Montpensier. It’s Parisian couture at its peak. A must-go-to is the establishment of Didier Ludot. Though his boutique is frequented by some of the richest and most fashionable women in the world, Monsieur Ludot is just a friendly, low-key, English-speaking Parisian with a passion for vintage fashion. Think Missy Eliott at Windsor (well, maybe not that stuffy)—that’s how incongruous bling enthusiasts would seem in here.

The shop is divided into two parts: 20 Galerie de Montpensier has a superb collection of haute couture from the 1920s to ’80s, including designs by Givenchy and Dior, while 24 Galerie de Montpensier sells accessories by all the main fashion houses. This is the place to knock off that Breakfast at Tiffany’s look, especially if you’re in the market for a perfect little black dress. Be prepared to give your plastic a workout.

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I love department stores, there is just so much to choose from. Two famous rivals, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, stand side by side on Boulevard Haussmann. Their shelves have everything from designer wear and brand names to private label merchandise.

If you love the soundscape of French and European music, FNAC at Les Halles is a godsend. FNAC is the French answer to the Virgin Music Store or Planet M—only bigger. FNAC has the largest collection of CDs and DVDs I’ve ever seen. Besides that, they have a great collection of TV and audio equipment at reasonable prices. However, be really careful while picking French movies, most of them will not have English subtitles. Look for those in the international sections.

Most old-fashioned Parisians still prefer doing their grocery-shopping at local speciality stores such as bakeries (boulangeries), butcher shops (boucheries), cheese shops (fromageries), etc. At Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd Arrondissement (just off Rue R’aumur), I found a very impressive selection of cheeses, saucisson (a French sausage) and breads. Besides that, the cafes and terraces offer a mid-shopping respite of café au lait or even chai. One place I love for breakfast is Le Pain Quotidien, a Belgian bakery with old communal wooden tables. They have delicious breads and spreads such as jams, hazelnut, honey, etc.

Once you’re done with the digestive exercise, and if you have unfettered access to your spouse’s platinum card, you must go to the 8th Arrondissement (or as the French know Cartier). Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor and Avenue Montaigne are where the rich and famous come to spend some serious cash (or plastic, cash is so last year). Besides French couture houses such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, there’s also Kenzo, Prada and Versace. And even if you are unfortunate enough to be a non-crorepati, Rue du Faubourg is worth a walkabout, if only to ogle at the ones who come to card-and-carry. Nowhere else would you find an ageing fur-swollen woman in the swankiest labels, swish along with a leash-led Dobermann. Such a great sight!

Louis Vuitton addicts will love their new flagship store on Avenue the Champs-Elysee, which opened in early October. Scarlet trunks greet you at the door, while historic pieces of luggage fill the upper walls, the sections only broken by grills with the famous monogram. The main attraction is the handbag bar—over 1,800 sq m of pure leather indulgence.

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End with a late afternoon cuppa at the La Duree, a tea salon, which is famous for their macaroons. They also have an exquisite foie gras appetiser and an inviting selection of infusion teas.

Who says shopping for other people can’t be fun?

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