Against the Grain

ONE of the best-sellers at chef Moshe Shek8217;s Oliva in New Delhi is the bajra bread. At the Oberoi Charcuterie, it8217;s the multi-grain farmers8217; loaves. Some of the city8217;s A-list may continue to swear by Delhi Gymkhana8217;s brown bread, but innovative bakers are clearly looking beyond wheat and the totally taboo rice flour.

And that8217;s a good thing too, says Delhi-based nutritionist Dr Shikha Sharma. 8216;8216;Sorghum jowar and millets have long been considered the poor man8217;s staples, but their dietary benefits can fill a huge gap in urban tables.8217;8217;

Pounded into flour or eaten as whole grains, jowar, bajra, ragi and other millets sustain a significant part of the rural population, especially in harsh terrains. 8216;8216;They are the principal sources of energy, protein, vitamins and minerals for millions,8217;8217; says Sharma.

Sorghum came to India from east Africa sometime in the first millennium BC and quickly became part of the local diet, particularly in the western parts of the country. In fact, the bhakar commonly served with zunka in Maharashtra is usually made of sorghum flour.

8216;8216;The grains are mostly white, bronze and brown, and are all good sources of minerals,8217;8217; says Sharma. 8216;8216;It8217;s a warming cereal, so it8217;s specially recommended for winters. Diabetics would benefit from it, since it has a very low glycaemic index.8217;8217;

Millets is the generic name used for a number of small-seeded cereal crops and, like sorghum, works as both food and fodder. Pearl millets bajra, which also originated in Africa tropical western Africa, in this case and found congenial homes in dry areas like Gujarat, lend themselves easily to rotis and other leavened and unleavened breads.

8216;8216;Whether white, pale yellow, brown, grey, slate blue or purple, all millets are rich in beta-carotene and protein. Since they promote growth, they are really good for pregnant women and young children,8217;8217; says Sharma.

Model-actor Sushama Reddy swears by unconventional grains. 8216;8216;I switched from fragrant white rice to brown rice about seven years ago. We cook it in a rice cooker, so that nutrients aren8217;t lost with the water. Another family favourite are moong chillas or rotis. They8217;re made with green, unsprouted moong and are far more nutritious than wheat rotis,8217;8217; says the lissome 20-something.

She also has a nachni porridge every morning instead of fancy cereals. It8217;s made simply by boiling the grain in hot milk and adding sugar. 8216;8216;And when I8217;m unwell, I eat a khulti soup. Khulti is a maroon-hued pulse grown in rural Maharashtra. Just boiling it in water with salt and garlic makes a tasty, healthy soup.8217;8217;

Not just livestock feed, staples traditionally used to brew alcohol also deserve a place on the table, says Sharma. 8216;8216;Finger millet, which we know as ragi, is usually malted for making beer. But the cereal8212;a staple in Kerala8212;is a good source of calcium, and so specially recommended for women with osteoporosis,8217;8217; she says. 8216;8216;It8217;s also good for those prone to acidity attacks.8217;8217;

Open the millet can and you8217;re spoilt for choice. There8217;s barley jaun, which can be had as flour or whole. It8217;s rich in protein and B-complex vitamins, and so recommended for anyone suffering from kidney problems or stones. Makki da atta, a Punjabi winter staple with sarson da saag, is a flour several notches above its refined namesake, the cornflour: It8217;s rich in calcium and very heavy in dietary fibre.

With inputs by Parizaad Khan