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I was introduced to the Dum Pukht Mutton of the Kotwara family (Meera is married to the Raja of Kotwara and filmmaker Muzaffar Ali) soon after my wedding when it was cooked as a special treat. The chef at Kotwara House in Lucknow was an old retainer, Nooran, whose family has been with Muzaffar’s family over generations. She took me into the old kitchen where it was cooked on a wood fire chullah, sat me down on a wooden stool and watched my expressions as I ate while getting hot rotis off the pan. “The best meals are eaten where they are cooked,” she told me. It was the best meal of my life. After she passed, her daughter Rehana took over our lives and cooked even better than her own mother.
Dum Pukht means “to breathe and cook”. It is about food that breathes in its own sealed aroma as it is cooked slowly over a low flame in a pot, the lid of which is often sealed with dough. The meat, rice and spices meld in their own aromas. The story of Dum Pukht begins in 18th-century Awadh, under the reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. Legend has it that huge deghs were left to simmer for hours to feed workers during a famine and when the lids were finally lifted, the fragrance changed everything. What began as humble sustenance evolved into royal cuisine, refined in the kitchens of Lucknow with delicate layering of meats, rice, saffron and attar.
Dum Pukht means “to breathe and cook”. It is about food that breathes in its own sealed aroma as it is cooked slowly over a low flame in a pot, the lid of which is often sealed with dough. The meat, rice and spices meld in their own aromas. The story of Dum Pukht begins in 18th-century Awadh, under the reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. Legend has it that huge deghs were left to simmer for hours to feed workers during a famine and when the lids were finally lifted, the fragrance changed everything. What began as humble sustenance evolved into royal cuisine, refined in the kitchens of Lucknow with delicate layering of meats, rice, saffron and attar.
Awadhi Dum Pukht Mutton
Serves 8 | Preparation time 30 mins
Cooking time 1 1/2 hours
Ingredients
Method