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This is an archive article published on November 22, 2019

Of Kappa and Curry

The home-style food at Kerala Cafe Restaurant will appeal to both Malayalis and non-Malayalis

Kerala Cafe Mayur Vihar, Mayur Vihar Kerala Cafe, Kerala food Delhi, South India food Mayur Vihar, Mayur Vihar South Indian restaturants, Kerala Cafe Delhi review, Indian Express  Offerings at the restaurant. (Express photo: Abhinav Saha)

Mayur Vihar’s Kerala Cafe has, for many years, been something of an institution. It’s where the homesick Malayali goes for those much-needed, therapeutic doses of puttu and kadala curry or egg curry and matta rice. Over time, this small East Delhi joint has gained quite a following, as even non-Malayalis discovered the joys of its delicious, well-priced food. Now, this once hole-in-the-wall eatery has opened as a restaurant with enough seating for 15 people. It’s not a lot, but those who have enjoyed Kerala Cafe’s food mostly via takeaway and delivery will be relieved to know that now, at least, there’s enough space to sit down at this modest eatery and enjoy a Kerala-style meal, hot and fresh from the kitchen.

We had lunch here one Saturday afternoon; it wasn’t crowded, because it was post 3pm, a Malayalam movie was playing on the small TV perched on the wall and we were invited to sit and laze over our lunch for as long as we wanted. In many other places of this size, the impatience of the serving and kitchen staff is understandable when customers stroll in after lunchtime as it cuts into their downtime. Still, the staff at Kerala Cafe didn’t hurry us through.

The food itself, of course, is the main reason we will return. Our kappa (steamed and mashed tapioca) was served with a meen (fish) curry that looked dangerously spicy but was, in fact, well-balanced in heat. The rich, oily flavour of the surmai (king mackerel) cut through the sourness of the tamarind-based curry and paired very well with the mildness of tapioca. We also had a set of three fluffy dosas with one of the best chicken roasts we’ve had in a long while: the meat was soft and well-cooked, and masala it was coated in was well-fried and aromatic.

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This is a restaurant which offers more options for meat and fish eaters than it does to vegetarians, but you can’t go wrong with the set vegetarian meal they offer at lunch. Our generous heap of rice was accompanied by sambar, avial (mixed vegetables with coconut), cherupayar thoran (mung bean stir-fry) and pineapple pachadi (pineapple lightly cooked with coconut and yogurt). Except the sambar – which could have used a little more tamarind and asafoetida – everything was pitch-perfect, and, together with crisp pappadams, made for a very satisfying meal.

Address: D-29A, Acharya Niketan,
Mayur Vihar Phase 1
Meal for two: Rs 800


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