‘Had to ensure no fabric shines excessively’: Neeta Lulla on Aishwarya Rai’s iconic red lehenga from Jodhaa Akbar showcased at The Academy Museum

“A lehenga fit for a queen, designed for the silver screen,” The Academy wrote on Instagram, sharing a video featuring scenes between Hrithik Roshan and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan. “Look closely and you’ll spot a peacock, India’s national bird, made entirely of jewels. Neeta Lulla didn’t design a costume; she crafted a legacy,” it added. The costume piece, now displayed on a mannequin at the exhibition, represents not just a movie costume but a testament to India’s rich textile heritage.

The designer shared insights into the design process with indianexpress.com, “There was a lot of research that went into the production of the garments. It was an intensive research of almost two to three months, and the whole process of being shot for the screen took almost nine months. It was a collective effort where I had to sit with not only Ashutosh, the director but even the camera person, depending on the type of lighting they were going to use.”

She elaborated on the careful selection of fabrics and colours, explaining, “If you see the whole film, you’ll see that there are five colours that have been used for the entire Kachhawa clan and five colours for the entire Mughal clan, and there’s no sixth or seventh colour in the film. Creating that was something that was very carefully done. The fabrics were carefully selected as we were shooting in natural light. We had to ensure no fabric would shine excessively and make the overall look garish. Therefore, we were very particular in our choices. We used cottons and mulls and incorporated embroidery to create a brocade-like feel with very fine zari work on the fabrics.”

Lulla also shed light on the creation of the peacock motif: “All the lehengas featured intricate work, and considering it was Rajasthan, we took very minute details of motifs that were very true to that era. As for the jewellery, only the jewellery incorporated peacock motifs; if you observe the entire costuming, you’ll notice there are no animal motifs on the clothes, as they were not used during that period. We took the liberty of incorporating the peacock element for the jewellery, as peacocks are an integral part of Rajasthan’s natural heritage.”

What fans said

Fans were ecstatic to see Indian fashion being represented on the global stage. One fan who personally visited the museum recently wrote, “It was so cool to see this representation in-person at the exhibit! More of this please.” Another user added, “Finally Indian iconic movies are getting featured on The Academy page.”

“Watched this on the big screen. The goosebumps were insane,” reminisced a user, while another pointed out, “Not to be annoying but I think the outfit on display is actually from the dinner scene, not from the wedding or song sequence pictured here.”

Why this is important

The inclusion of this exquisite lehenga in the Academy Museum’s exhibition marks a pivotal moment in the global recognition of Indian cinema’s artistic excellence. 

The selection of this particular piece is significant because it embodies the intersection of India’s historical costume heritage with contemporary filmmaking, showcasing how traditional craftsmanship like zardozi embroidery continues to be relevant in modern storytelling. 

Zardozi embroidery is a centuries-old technique that involves sewing with metal threads to create intricate designs. (Source: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla)

Furthermore, the decision to feature this lehenga alongside other significant pieces of film history elevates Indian cinema’s position in global cultural dialogue, bridging the gap between Eastern and Western film traditions. 

On the feat, Lulla expressed her joy: “I feel fabulous. I don’t know if you know, but I’m a part of the Academy as well. But for the Academy to be, you know, reaching out and saying we want to feature Jodhaa Akbar, because unanimously people have loved the clothes was brilliant.”

The recognition comes as part of a growing appreciation for Indian cinema by The Academy, which has previously highlighted scenes featuring other Bollywood stars including Deepika Padukone and Shah Rukh Khan from films such as Bajirao Mastani, Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, and Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham.

Meanwhile, as the 97th Academy Awards approach, India maintains a presence in the Oscar race through Guneet Monga’s Anuja, shortlisted in the Best Live-Action Short Film category, and the British-Indian film Santosh, directed by Sandhya Suri and starring Shahana Goswami. According to reports, the Oscar nominations will be announced on January 17, with the ceremony scheduled for March 3, 2025, to be hosted by comedian Conan O’Brien.

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