From Gujarati ‘vaniyo’ to European banyan, how the Indian ‘baniyan’ became what it is today

Professor Devender Singh Kharb, Dean of the School of Fashion at the World University of Design, peels back the layers of its intriguing history, revealing a captivating story of trade, cultural exchange, and a fascinating divergence in meaning.

From merchants to undershirts: The Indian baniyan

The origin of baniyan lies in the heart of Indian commerce. It stems from the Gujarati word “vāṇiyo” (વાણિયો), meaning “merchant”, said Kharb.

In the 16th century, Portuguese traders encountered these enterprising individuals, particularly those from the Gujarati community, and adopted the term to refer to them.

Over time, baniyan transcended its association with just Gujarati merchants. Today, it broadly refers to India’s merchant communities, especially those belonging to the Vaishya varna traditionally engaged in business pursuits, according to Kharb.

“The term also finds specific application for communities like the Marwaris, well-known for their prominence in Indian trade. Their traditional business roles are reflected in the use of terms like “bania” or “vanik,” both derived from the root meaning ‘trader’ or ‘merchant’,” he explained in an interaction with indianexpress.com.

Over time, baniyan transcended its association with just Gujarati merchants. (A still from Lal Singh Chaddha)

The European banyan: A borrowed garment

Across the seas, a different story unfolded for the word . European traders and colonists in India were drawn to the comfortable, loose-fitting clothing worn by Indian merchants. They associated this attire with the term baniyan they had encountered in their trade dealings, said Kharb,

When these garments were adapted and incorporated into European fashion during the 17th and 18th centuries, the term “banyan” was cleverly used to describe them. This fascinating instance, Kharb said, highlights cultural exchange, where Europeans borrowed elements of Indian dress. However, the meaning of banyan underwent a transformation in Europe, becoming a distinct garment style – a loose-fitting shirt or gown for men.

While baniyan and banyan share a common origin linked to Indian merchants, their meanings diverged significantly over time. In India, “baniyan” continues to be associated with the merchant class and has further evolved to encompass undershirts commonly worn by men. Meanwhile, in Europe, “banyan” became a specific style of casual wear, a testament to the fascinating ways cultures influence and inspire each other’s fashions.