Exclusive: Gaurav Gupta calls showstopper Janhvi Kapoor ‘Gen Z culturalist’ at his India Couture Week show

Known for his eye-catching architectural designs, Gupta is not just a powerhouse of creativity but also fast emerging as a force to be reckoned with – both at home, and in the international fashion scene.

From having dressed celebrities like Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion, and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and now with Janhvi Kapoor as his showstopper for Hiranyagarbha, to presenting his first collection at the Paris Fashion Week this year, Gupta’s star is rising, nay, skyrocketing like a missile headed towards space.

Janhvi is pretty, she’s hot. She’s chill. And she’s also kind of a “muhfatt”. (Source: Gaurav Gupta/ Instagram)

Ahead of the showing of his newest collection on July 27 at the India Couture Week in Delhi, the fashion maven talked to indianexpress.com about his new work, the research behind it, working with celebrities across the world and his trajectory as a designer.

See the edited excerpts below.

Q. Tell us about your new collection Hiranyagarbha. Have you added new ensembles to it after presenting it at Paris Fashion Week?

Gupta: Hiranyagarbha is the concept of this collection, which is expanded from our Hiranyagarbha showcase in Paris. Hiranyagarbha literally translates to the womb out of which the universe is born, wherein hiranya means gold and garbha means womb. The Indian edition is slightly more expanded than the Paris one, with more bridal couture looks incorporated to the ones which were already shown in Paris. These ensembles can be worn at your cocktail or reception, some might even wear them to their wedding. Who knows?

Q. What was your inspiration behind the collection?

Gupta: I’m enamoured by the Indian Vedic philosophies and when you’re hypnotised by the science of India, then inspiration is everywhere. This is why my collection is about the ‘panch tattvas’ or five elements: ether (akasha), air (vayu), water (jala), fire (agni), and earth (prithvi). We’ve interpreted them in modern colours, with the white of space, the yellow of the Sun’s fire, the water being electric blue, and then there’s malachite of the earth and sage for wind.

There are many new additions from the Paris collection, like pearl embroideries, and crystals on the bodice. Each piece is a work of art. Each piece takes 30 processes. And 5,000 people will be involved, with hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of manhours.

Q. What was it like working with Janhvi Kapoor as your showstopper for this collection?

Gupta: I think Janhvi represents the Gen Z of India. She’s pretty, she’s hot. She’s chill. And she’s also kind of a “muhfatt”. She’s becoming a culturalist in her own right, with a unique fashion sense and vibes. And I think that’s what I want to support. India’s going through its own cultural process. The young ones are still struggling to totally break out, even though there is a lot of youth happening. I picked Janhvi because I wanted to support and inculcate the energy of the youth.

 

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Q. How do you feel about your success?

Gupta: For the first time in my life, I’m understanding the meaning of gratitude. I’m filled with gratitude. I’m just thankful to the universe and to my stars, and to the people who love me. I’m surrounded by love, to be honest, in life. And I finally feel like I’m home. I feel very comfortable in this zone. I don’t get stressed these days. I have become very calm and zen. It’s like when you become what you are meant to be. What I’ve managed to build as a brand is a really beautiful, mature system, which is kind of redefining couture in a very truthful way.

Q. What is a core design principle you’ve stuck by all these years and how has it defined you as a designer?

Gupta: My only constant over the years has been originality. I’m a particular kind of an artist. And I’m very, very true to my art. Though I might define my aesthetic as future primitive, I don’t like to be boxed in. I totally relate to Gen Z in that way. I relate to all their sexes and terms.

Inspiration is always abstract, its nature. The wonderment of the whole universe is my inspiration: be it surrealism, fantasy, Dadaism, magic realism, you know all of these art movements. I am obsessed with sculptures. I’m obsessed with art. There’s no particular trend or designer, or language that I followed. I followed my own language.

Q. What are some new sustainable practices that you’ve adopted in your design process?

Gupta: My whole factory has become much more sustainable. We do ocean and landfill plastic for all the packaging. So if you see jacket covers backstage, etc, you’ll see the sign saying, “I used to be a plastic bottle.” There was so much wastage in packaging and I wanted to change that. It’s a process that we have really looked deep into and even though it costs us a bit more, we’re happier for it. I’m proud to say that the whole packaging process of Gaurav Gupta is sustainable.

We’re still trying to evolve more sustainable practices. Switching from polyester to natural fabrics, we’re looking at industrial dyeing and not local dyeing. We are looking at building a zero-waste policy, where the scraps of the things that are cut out are used again.

 

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Q. Top 5 trends to keep an eye out for in 2023

Gupta: I don’t believe in trends. I think I am the trend. Whoever is vibing with themselves is the trend.

Q. What is your plan for the next five years?

Gupta: The plan for the next 5 years is increased global expansion, multiple legs to the brand with multiple product categories, which will be launched, and maybe looking at some other artistic avenues that I have. We’re already expanding our menswear and ready-to-wear lines, with the latter launching at Neiman Marcus. I make 10 collections a year right now. So my plate is quite full. It is challenging, but I love it.

Q. One fashion trend you could never wrap your head around?

Gupta: The Barbie trend. I’m both nervous and excited to see where it goes. It can go into a really candy space. Or pink can become the new black. We’ll have to wait it out.

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