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Much Ado about the Nath

The Maharashtrian nath — a symbol of old-world charm — is back in focus

A quintessential piece of jewellery,the elegant Maharashtrian nath has been flaunted by women in the state since time immemorial. Styled in the shape of the number “9” and studded with translucent pearls,this symbol of old-world charm has long been an essential part of a bride’s trousseau,often being passed down as family heirloom. Legendary actor Bal Gandharva is remembered for wearing the nath with panache when he portrayed female characters in Marathi plays in the early 20th century.

More recently,the nath has metamorphosed into an accessory that adds a dash of chic to an outfit. Clad in a white lace sari teamed with an embroidered trailing jacket by Anamika Khanna,Sonam Kapoor was a stunner on the red carpet at the opening ceremony at Cannes Film Festival 2013. During the same event,actor Vidya Balan was also spotted in a classic cream and gold sari by Sabyasachi Mukherjee,heavily dressed up with beaded necklaces,jhumkas and of course,the loud nose ring.

Sudhanva Ranade,from Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum in Pune,describes the nath as a piece of culture. Ranade says the ensemble — what kind of sari,the rest of the jewellery — is important to bring out the richness of the nath. He shows us an oil painting from the museum’s collection that showcases a woman sitting in an old-fashioned living room,dressed in simple sari,wearing the nath. “The setting makes all the difference,” he says with a smile.

Manorama Umbrajkar,a homemaker in the city,is among those who have preserved the family heirloom — a large nath passed down to her by her grandmother-in-law,for her granddaughter. The large Basra pearls shine with a watery pale glint amid the striking scarlet ruby and the rough,uncut diamond. “This is a bigger version of the nath. Nobody sells these any more. They are far too big for the young girls to handle,” she says.

Explaining the history and making of the nath,Narendra Jadhav,Design Head,PN Gadgil Jewellers,says,“Traditionally,Indians did not pierce their noses. The legacy of nose ornaments comes from the Middle East,” he says. He adds that the nath is woven together traditionally,in gold. The Basra pearls are threaded with emeralds and rubies and studded with an uncut diamond,he says. Of course,the designs have changed over the years. “Earlier,the nath used to be big as well as heavy. But now,the smaller and lighter versions are more popular,” he says,calling attention to Kareena Kapoor’s look in the song Chammak challo song from Ra.One.

Sonal Kulkarni,a student from Pune University,says the nath is nowadays usually reserved for family functions such as weddings and thread ceremonies. Kulkarni has recently acquired a pair of earrings shaped exactly like a nath. “They look very elegant,and look perfect as earrings as well. They are in the shape of a kairi,” she says,adding that she plans to wear them with a kurti.

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