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Kolkata-based designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s recent re-branding exercise has been both, discreet and decisive. The facade of his new flagship store in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai — that replaces the older store located down the road — bears the striking ‘Sabyasachi Calcutta’ signage, with a prominent Bengal tiger in the logo. Housed in the heritage precincts of Ador House on 6K Dubash Marg, the sombre wooden doors of the establishment belie what lies beyond.
As you step off the rainy street and into Mukherjee’s museum of memories, prepare to be dazzled by an array of hand-painted chandeliers, forming a canopy over an antique Iranian carpet-lined wall. Strains of Farida Khanum’s Aaj Jaane ki Zidd na Karo waft through the air, as your eyes adjust to the warm tones of Mukherjee’s sepia-tinted world. A profusion of antique plates, vintage clocks, old photographs and framed calendar art give you the feeling of having stepped into a magpie’s sanctuary. Here, the Bengali boudi with her keen aesthetic eye meets the eccentric Parsi collector gentleman, as every conceivable surface — horizontal and vertical — becomes the receptacle for odds and ends. Except this collector has amassed nearly 52 antique rugs from Iran, Baluchistan, Azerbaijan, Turkey and Afghanistan, 400 ittar bottles from the bylanes of Hyderabad and Lucknow and 22 chandeliers that form focal points through the flow of the 8,500-square-foot store.
In the midst of such magnificence, Mukherjee himself is dressed in a simple white shirt, blue jeans, a beige scarf and Kolhapuri chappals on the day of the store preview. But then, he has always been a study in surprising contrasts — marrying the opulence of his creations with his own innate modesty, teaming coarse khadi with glittering zardozi and ornateness with fuss-free silhouettes. The store, conceived and designed by him, reflects this amply. The bridal parlour is centred around a shimmering chandelier, juxtaposing the grandiose of his gold-threaded Anarkalis with the chintz curtains block-printed on 200 count khadi.
These khadi curtains mark off sections, with one such recessed alcove serving as a jewellery parlour for Hyderbadi heritage jewellers Kishan Das & Co. On display is some mouth-watering jewellery — including a few vintage pieces that are “not for sale” — curated by Mukherjee, in order to provide bridal clients a one-stop clothing and jewellery solution.
A gleaming Burma teak staircase leads to the basement level, which houses the ready-to-wear saris, Indian and western formals. With changing rooms that resemble vintage first class train compartment coupes, a cactus garden lining wooden steps, varnished wooden courtyard pillars from Gujarat and restored Colonial furniture, the “intimate, not intimidating” space is Mukherjee’s manifestation of Indian luxury.
Beside the bandhgalas, sherwanis and embroidered ‘jootis’ in the dedicated menswear section, taking pride of place is a vintage hand-painted portrait, a product of Mukherjee’s other pet project, the Sabyasachi Art Foundation. An observatory for incubating and nurturing artistic talent, Mukherjee’s initiative is also responsible for the lavishly framed portraits and calendar art lining the walls of the store. And while an exhibition by the foundation is definitely in the works, for now, Mukherjee is on to his next project — his collection for the upcoming India Couture Week. “I still haven’t started work on it,” he says.
Mukherjee is a consummate storyteller and the store is one such chronicle of the designer’s many facets. He plans to broaden his canvas and dabble in interior design and décor and the store is his way of paving the path for Sabyasachi Homes. Like Mukherjee says, this flagship store is “60 per cent experience, 40 per cent retail”. Do you, then, blame us for hardly noticing the clothes?
kimi.dangor@expressindia.com
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