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This is an archive article published on October 22, 2009

Raise your glass

AnItalian who started off as a regular chef,Chef Ronaldo Beramendi of Allegrini wines,travelled throughout his country and saw great combinations of food and wine that he wanted to share.

An Italian who started off as a regular chef,Chef Ronaldo Beramendi of Allegrini wines,travelled throughout his country and saw great combinations of food and wine that he wanted to share. He has been living in America for over 20 years,consulting on pairing food with wine,and is hosted here by the JW Marriott hotel.

the focus of pairing on enhancing the food or the wine?
We try to achieve both equally,as we are trying to enhance the entire dining experience in which food and wine play equal parts. This is why we research the food traditions of a country culturally new to wine before holding any pairing sessions such as the ones we held at the JW Marriott last week. It is a lot easier to pair wine with food when you understand the cuisine.

you think promoting wine pairing in India is jumping the gun given that wine isn’t really on most dinner tables?
Although I am from Italy,I’ve lived in the United States for 23 years; there was little appreciation for wine in the 80s as people preferred drinking bourbon. Now,Americans have a sophisticated appreciation for wine and in parts the culture of pairing with food. Similarly,I think with India it is all a matter of time,quickened by more travel which will make Indians appreciate wine. The important thing is to make pairing less dogmatic to make it more accepted; wine pairing is very subjective and it is a matter of personal taste. The Indian palate is already so sophisticated,soon Indians will realise how much better food can be with the right wine.

ce pairing is subjective,what are the rough principles?
I don’t think there is any right or wrong,I am simply trying to make people understand the basics. The thing to keep in mind,though,is matching weight of the wine and food; delicate flavours with a light wine and heavy,spicy food with a strong,heavy wine. Weight of the wine corresponds closely with alcoholic strength,which can be a rough guide before deciding to open a bottle. Acidity is another key factor; Italian wines are high in acidity and therefore complement food easily. Acidic foods make you want to eat more as well. To match wines with low acidity,go for more creamy and complex flavours. There is no science so experiment,but try and complement the dominant flavour,whether it is the food or the wine.

Are there any foods that are difficult to pair with wine?
I’ve been travelling around the world consulting on pairing wine and food; more so in Asia and the East recently. The cuisines that use too much vinegar or raw fruit are hard to suitably match. Also,particular items such as artichokes or fennel should not be used while pairing with wine – it doesn’t matter what wine you use,it will all taste the same.

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