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This is an archive article published on July 8, 2009

Pure Luck

If Nazneen Sarkar,the driven 20-something owner of Puro,were a child,we wonder how she would have responded to “What do you want to be when you grow up?

If Nazneen Sarkar,the driven 20-something owner of Puro,were a child,we wonder how she would have responded to “What do you want to be when you grow up?” We certainly hope she didn’t seriously say that she wanted to be a diamond trader,painter,interior designer and restaurateur,all of which she is.

Sarkar has,however,used these various talents well — her diamond trading provided for the capital and her interior decorating skills went into the design and execution of the renovation of Puro. Plus,the restaurant displays her paintings,and we wouldn’t be surprised if she hosts exhibitions soon. “I feel lucky that everything has fallen into place,” Sarkar says,adding it has taken her just three months from conception to opening the space. “The little things helped — for example,while I’m paying rent,the fact that the building is owned by my family meant that I could get the work started and do the paper work later,” she adds.

The restaurant itself is tastefully done up in predominantly white and has a bar with a soothing blue backlight. There is a row of booth-styled tables on the left,which surprisingly don’t stand out as informal in an otherwise elegant restaurant. The two elements we didn’t like,though,are the pillars that dominate the view of the entire room (structural,therefore permanent),and a TV projector near the bar. Puro isn’t a pretentious restaurant,but for us,the cricket is out of place in an establishment that bothers to have its name engraved on the cutlery and whose name translates to Pure.

Puro’s menu is dominated by European,and particularly,Italian cuisine,but manages to incorporate eclectic cuisines such as Malaysian and Moroccan as well. While the food is generally good,there’s nothing that’s explosive. The Grilled Asparagus with Parmesan was a fair effort,but Indian asparagus is simply too sickly thin to look appealing. The Seafood Bisque and wild mushroom were admirably well-balanced as they were rich but not too creamy; the Mushroom soup had pieces of roasted almonds — an inspired move. The Grilled Duck Salad was the only dish under par,with the duck being neither succulent nor tender. Our last appetiser,the Smoked Salmon Gateaux layered with guacamole was special; the fatty avocado complements the salmon well.

The menu at Puro dedicates a page each to Pasta and Pizza,which is what most vegetarians will opt for since mains has only one vegetarian option. The Lobster Thermidor was deliciously creamy with a slight pungency and the Wild Mushroom Risotto was just right. The Turkey Ham and Bolognese Lasagna was surprisingly light,and impressively firm enough for it to be served sliced rather than whole. The Tiramisu was lovely but could use more cocoa,so we would recommend the Apple Flapjack instead for novelty.

We could easily recommend Puro for one meal at least,but we aren’t convinced the bar will be popular as it’s better suited for a pre- or post-dinner drink rather than a standalone.

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