Food Junction

But this is not the case with other lanes named after foods in Mumbai. “Most of them have a history that is associated with being the first to begin some kind of food revolution in Mumbai,” says Rao. The Bread Market Lane situated in Fort first got its name because most of the city’s bakeries were concentrated here. “It still continues to have the oldest bakery in the city—the Victoria bakery,” says Rao,who also has memories of Mutton Street that extended from Grant Road to Duncan Cross lane. “It was the first mutton market in the city,although today it is known as Chor Bazaar,where dealers of antique objects do business.”

“In a food-obsessed city like Mumbai,it is only just that credit is given to streets from where the food originated,” says food critic Rashmi Uday Singh. “Once upon a time,Mumbai had many tamarind trees where public auctions took place. They formed a familiar sight along the small roads and outskirts,but today they are seen less due to indiscriminate use of their timber.” Tamarind Lane,Chinchpokli and Chinchbunder have been named after this tree and a walk down these streets will help you spot a few trees even today.

Just like you would spot coconut groves,berry growths and jackfruit plantations,in Narialwadi,Jambulwadi and Fanaswadi,respectively,near Kalbadevi. “During the British rule,the city limits in Mumbai ended at the GPO. Beyond the GPO were plantations and hence they were divided into wadis according to the crop they grew,” says Dr Fleur D’Souza,Vice Principal (Arts) and Professor of History at St Xavier’s College. In fact,Naoroji Cowasji Narialwala from Mazgaon is also known to be the first trader of coconuts in the city; the Narialwadi was a tribute paid to him.

The obsession did not end in South Mumbai,it extended to Ghatkopar where the Hingwala lane is named after a family that dealt in asafoetida business. “The government may name the streets after political and religious leaders,but it’s names like Hingwala Lane and Khot Lane that give us a glimpse of the city’s history,” says Pravesh Mehta,a cosmetics dealer in the area.

Streets such as Baida Gully,Bhendi Gully,Chivda Gully and Mirchi Gully have been referred to by the locals because of the specific foodstuffs sold there,although they may not find mention in the Mumbai directory. “But most shop owners place these names in their postal addresses,” says Rao. However,places like Bhajipala Lane near Abdul Rahman Street,Fish Market Lane in Dhobi Talao and Milk Street near

Byculla Station have concurred these as their official names. “While the market at Bhajipala has the freshest vegetables in town,the Milk Street has plenty of buffalo sheds,” says Rao. No wonder these names have often been replicated in the suburbs,one distinct example being the Aarey Milk Colony.

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