Around Town: With 8ish, Rachel Goenka gives SoBo a cocktail bar it didn’t know it needed

“Sassy Spoon was established here 13 years ago, and the neighbourhood has changed so much since then, especially with the opening of the coastal road, which has opened South Bombay to the rest; earlier it was always a trek. The town has had a revival of its own, especially Nariman Point,” said Goenka, adding that this felt like the right time to turn it into a cocktail bar, a concept she had long envisioned.

Goenka, daughter of Viveck Goenka, chairman, The Express Group, is the creative force behind The Sassy Spoon, House of Mandarin, Baraza and Sassy Teaspoon.

Bar Bites- Crispy lotus stem smoked BBQ rub, spiced nuts rosemary, crunchy chickpeas, marinated olives, mahua flowers caperberries, steamed edamame with fried garlic.

When asked about the name — quirky and almost a conversation-starter — she smiles: “Everybody has been raving about it. I think it’s because everyone can relate to it. Whenever people discuss what time they should meet for a catch-up, the answer is usually ‘around eight-ish.’ So we thought, why not take that old neighbourhood familiarity and call the space 8ish? Now the question isn’t just ‘what time’, but ‘where should we meet?’”

Inside 8ish

Speaking about the concept, she added, “There are many places in the area classified as pubs, resto-bars or upscale restaurants with strong beverage programmes, but I don’t think anyone has truly done a bar, especially in South Bombay. For me, 8ish was about building a warm, inviting, friendly neighbourhood cocktail bar. Cocktail bars don’t have to be super fancy or pretentious. They can be neighbourhood spaces too, the kind you drop by three or four times a week for your favourite drink. It doesn’t need to be a destination; it can simply be a detour, as we like to call it.”

Having made up her mind early this year, Goenka turned around the space in just 60 days and opened it to the public mid-November. Translating her vision into a design language was Shweta Kaushik of SKID, who created a room for that in-between hour when the city begins to loosen up and the night finds its rhythm.

Rachel Goenka, Founder and CEO of TCSC Hospitality, the restauranteur behind The Sassy Spoon, House of Mandarin, Baraza and Sassy Teaspoon.

At this 120-seater, seating ranges from high chairs to plush mahogany leather sofas, all bathed in amber-hued lighting. The deep maroon marble bar framed with tarnished copper is the dramatic centrepiece, as is the lenticular artwork that shifts between Salvador Dalí and John Lennon — a playful, slightly surreal welcome that reveals itself through the evening, alongside witty lines etched onto glasses (“We are just getting started”) and tables (“Come as you are”). There’s also a breezy al fresco section. The space allows you to unwind without feeling the need to decode the science behind your drink — it’s technique-forward without being intimidating.

Matters of Taste

We began with ‘Nearly Misbehaved’ (Rs 890), a flirtatious mix of gin, chingfing and mint, sharpened with supasawa and rounded with fresh apple juice. The herby bitterness comes from chingfing, a North Eastern herb that takes the place of bitters. Next came the delightfully ‘Dangerously Unhinged’ (Rs 990), a whiskey-based concoction softened with pandan, sesame milk and banana saccharum. Velvety, tropical and just sweet enough, it demands a repeat.

In sync with her vision, the food menu is largely bar nibbles and small plates, with a few mains to round out the night. The crispy lotus stem in smoked barbecue masala kept us company throughout. The Asparagus Mousse was a celebration of all things asparagus — an airy, foamy mousse with a citrusy salsa at the centre, topped with tempura asparagus and served with rice crackers. Their pull-apart soft cheese bread arrives on a bed of smoked scamorza and white onion sauce, finished with a tomato-chilli jam.

Jishnu A.J., a seasoned mixologist with over a decade of experience at Ekaa, KOKO, Four Seasons Mumbai, and Marriott Kochi, helms the bar at 8ish.

A standout is the buff and bone marrow slider. Between soft sesame-sprinkled milk buns sits a juicy patty with bacon jam. A cured egg yolk binds everything without overpowering the flavours. We’re told they’re already a hit, with many patrons ordering repeats, and we’re not surprised. We also tried the Goan chorizo hummus. The deep, smoky chorizo pairs beautifully with what might be one of the smoothest hummuses we’ve had. The pillowy texture comes from white beans instead of chickpeas. The in-house sourdough crackers are the ideal crunchy accompaniment.

Then came another round of drinks. ‘Lenon’ (Rs 990) is a bright, herbaceous blend of shiso-infused vodka, muskmelon and basil, with a wisp of mezcal for quiet rebellion and a clean citrus lift from supasawa. ‘Garibaldi’ (Rs 750) sticks to two ingredients — Campari and orange juice — but the latter is whipped into an impossibly fluffy texture. Definitely opt for it if you enjoy your drinks on the bitter side.

From the toasties, we loved the roasted cherry tomato and mozzarella version on thin sourdough slathered with basil pesto. We also recommend crispy chicken, truffle hot sauce and parmesan aioli toastie in milk bread — comforting, indulgent and generously sized.

Buff & Bone Marrow Slider, Bacon Jam, Cured Egg Yolk, Milk Bun.

For mains, we had the drunken prawn noodles that saw well-seasoned prawns, peanuts and vegetables tossed with noodles in a hearty, satisfying bowl. We ended with a Tiramisu, which lived up to The Sassy Spoon’s reputation. Before we could leave, Jishnu sent over Tongba (Rs 2000). Part of their sharing cocktails for a group of 3-4, it arrived in a kulhad and offered an almost comforting and earthy fermented millet drink topped with a little white rum and warm water.

For now, 8ish opens at 5.30 pm and serves cocktails till 1.30 am. When asked if lunch service is coming soon, Goenka shared there has been steady demand from corporate offices in the neighbourhood, but for now she is keen on establishing it firmly as a bar.

As for more 8ish outposts, she shakes her head. “This isn’t the kind of brand you can scale. It’s a very owner-driven space — I’m here almost every night, Jishnu is here every night. Like any true neighbourhood bar, you need someone present to welcome you. That’s what makes it what it is.”