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Journalism of Courage
Lower Parel’s The Bombay Canteen has been one of the most-awaited openings this year. Aided by Top Chef Masters winner Floyd Cardoz helming the kitchen, it serves contemporary Indian food.
Situated inside Kamala Mills, the spacious restaurant is designed like an ancestral bungalow with mosaic tiles and colourful glass panels. The bar extends through the length of the space with a counter on one end stacked with nostalgia-filled offerings such as Parle-G and mawa cakes, paying homage to the A-1s and Kyanis of the city. Large posters made of cutouts from Femina’s cookbooks from the ’60s, adorn the walls.
While we were placing our order, a server wearing suspenders, carrying a tray of chintus, approached us. We picked the crispy lotus stem and desi devilled eggs. Priced at Rs 40 for veg and Rs 60 for non-veg, these small bites can get quite addictive.
Our cocktails came in early and were stiff. For Old Monk lovers, The Dark Monsoon (Rs 325) is the perfect partner-in-crime.
However, our pick on any night would be the light but delicious Jhoom Jaam (Rs 425) — pandan infused vodka mixed with star-fruit juice, white chocolate syrup and orange bitters. We paired the drink with papdi chat-like arbi tuk (Rs 150), where deep-fried chunks are layered with chilli-spiced curd, tamarind chutney and a rat-tail radish salad on the side.
The restaurant was buzzing by this time and the music was cranked up a few decibels. From the badas (large plates), we picked tava beef kheema kothu roti (Rs 550) and banana leaf wrapped roasted fish. The fish was the catch of the day — buttery soft red snapper. We gave it a ‘bada’ thumbs up.
Like the rest of the menu, the desserts too evoke a sense of known with a dash of the unknown. The masala chai popsicles (Rs 200) and the ice cream sandwich (Rs 200) remind one of post-school indulgences. Creamy dark chocolate and tulsi ice cream is tightly squeezed between two Bonbon biscuits and a Jim-Jam like cookie comes with chocolate ginger ice-cream.
If The Bombay Canteen successfully continues its experiments with regional cuisine, it could emerge as an oasis in the city’s otherwise dull food scene.
Meal for two: Rs 2000 (without alcohol)
meenakshi.iyer@expressindia.com
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