Sunset at Hakkasan

Moreover,we are told that they can’t accommodate us after 7 pm because they are entirely “booked”. So we arrive before sunset,looking as formal as we can,in a black jumpsuit paired with a thin brown belt. The smile on the attendant’s face says,“Good enough,” and to our (short-lived) glee,we’re informed that we have been given one of the best tables in the restaurant. This turns out to be a two-seater that is a sneeze away from a long row of tables,bang in the centre of the room.

Hakkasan,a franchise of the London-based Michelin star restaurant,doesn’t aim to intimidate its guests. It wishes to set an international standard that many restaurateurs might aspire to follow in the coming months. With people lining up to eat there,not to mention others making reservations days,maybe weeks,in advance,Bandra’s newest fine dining hub has a lot going for it. The servers,dressed in blue baby doll dresses,are attractive Asian girls reminiscent of Singapore Airlines flight attendants. As for the dress code we were dreading,the person on the phone got it wrong because instead of boardroom attire,we found diners dressed comfortably in ‘smart casuals’,the kind you wear on a night out in town.

We started off with a Hakkatini (Rs 650),a thin blend of orange and vodka,which masterfully balances the bitter and the sweet. We also tried the Zesty Martini (Rs 650) which,true to its name,delighted us with its curious infusions of ginger,coriander and lime. The Kumquat Mojito (Rs 650),on the other hand,was a bit of a letdown,overflowing with ice that diluted the flavours until you tasted nothing but really cold water.

The variety in vegetarian and non-vegetarian starters can potentially omit the need for the maincourse,depending on how greedy you get. The Veg Dumpling Soup (Rs 350) is a disappointment,as the bland broth borrows its taste from what could only be vegetable stock. The Lotus Dumpling (Rs 375) is a clear winner,with crunchy cubes of lotus roots that simply delight you,when paired with the spicy chilly sauces that come with it. The Crispy Duck Roll (Rs 450) sounds like a promising appetiser,but fails to make an impression as it’s difficult to get past its tough exterior to the overcooked shreds of duck and spring onions.

For mains,we settled for Egg Fried Rice (Rs 400) with Braised Chicken (Rs 750) and Taro Dome (Rs 550) as accompaniments. Unfortunately,the braised chicken,though tender and juicy,lacked enough sauce to make the undercooked rice go down without the help of some water. But the Taro Dome,with vegetables and nuts in a fried noodle base,was quite filling,and rich enough to be eaten on its own with nothing more than a glass of chardonnay.

The size of the portions were quite erratic — the soup could not be shared because it was too small,the mains could not be finished because they were too large,but the starters,on the other hand,were just right for two people. Word of warning: try not to waste the food because they don’t parcel food items,even on request.

Hakkasan is an experience that can’t be afforded on a weekly basis. Which is why the the bar section,though small,is already a place people love to hang out at,even if they are not waiting for a table.

The staff is keen on assistance and insists that one should come back. How soon they wanted us back became questionable as the attendant at the reception added,“Not this week though. We’re completely booked out.”

Meal for two with drinks costs approximately Rs 7,000.

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