On the street that never sleeps

Though some shops have pulled down their shutters,most are open,selling dates,scarves,itars and seviyan (vermicelli) under the colourful paper lamps that dot the street. Several kiosks and makeshift food counters too have sprouted on the street. There are fresh buns being served with large bowls of steaming milk (for Rs 10) at Haji Tea Stall and stacks of rusk biscuits are waiting to be dunked into hot cups of tea.

Karim’s serves nihari and paya (lamb shanks in a soup-like curry) from 2 a.m. on. Purely for breakfast,nihari and paya are not served for dinner here. Between its three sitting spaces that are open for early morning feasting,it’s packed houseful with foodies who have woken up early to sample a slice of their morning delicacies. The breakfast menu is limited to mutton nihari,paya,qorma and mutton barra (roasted lamb ribs)—all priced between Rs 135 and

Rs 200 for a plate.

Just a few blocks further,we make a mandatory stop at Cool Point for shahi tukra. The shop has packed up for the day,but owner Naiyyar Iqbal has stationed a counter outside on the street with a large tray of the dessert. At Rs 10 for a plate,you can spoon in a sugary concoction of bread,milk and dry fruits. And if you want something cooler,Iqbal will scoop out homemade mango and vanilla ice-cream for you for Rs 10.

Haji Kallan’s shop close to the exit is another popular stop for early morning snacking. The shop has decked up its counter with layers of seviyan and other sweets but you can also ask for a tall glass of creamy lassi here. You can end your meal with a round of sweet paan at Mushtaq Paan Bhandar. The 52-year old shop rolls out a variety of paan and during Ramazan,owner Mushtaq keeps open till five in the morning.

It is already 4 a.m. and worshippers hurriedly finish their food and head to the Jama Masjid for morning prayers. Another day has begun.