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This is an archive article published on February 12, 2011

Turf choice

Perhaps the most enduring image of Derby fashion is that of Audrey Hepburn,resplendent in her Cecil Beaton gown at the Royal Ascot in the 1964 film,My Fair Lady.

As a new racing season gallops in,we look at current trends in Derby fashion

Perhaps the most enduring image of Derby fashion is that of Audrey Hepburn,resplendent in her Cecil Beaton gown at the Royal Ascot in the 1964 film,My Fair Lady. As she urged on the horses,waving her humungous hat and frilly parasol,

Hepburn forever sealed the image of the hat-wearing,parasol-waving elegant lady at the races. It’s no wonder then,that as the Derby season rolls in this year,attendees dig out their best dresses and floppiest hats in order to attend the races. So what,if unlike the Royal Ascot,the Indian races don’t really enforce a dress code.

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That’s not how it always was,though,says Mumbai-based fashion designer Delna Poonawalla. “My parents told me that,about 30 years ago,there was a fairly strict dress-code,with men and women turning out in their Sunday Best.” Those women,who chose not to wear day dresses,wore saris,while most men were rigged out in suits,ties and hats. As enthusiasts prepare for the Poonawalla Breeders’ Multi-Million race to be held on February 27 in Mumbai,and many more races to follow in the coming weeks,it’s interesting to note how trends have changed.

Now,the dress code is relaxed,with women having the option of dressing in Indian or western wear. Designer Digvijay Singh says that a lot of women also ask for breeches,especially to attend the races. He adds,“The trend now is to be relaxed as far as the actual clothes are concerned,but to experiment with the accessories. So men might wear ties with a horse print,and women might wear belts featuring horse-bits.”

Poonawalla,however,adds,“In the paddocks and the members’ enclosure,men are still required to wear a jacket and a tie. A lot of men choose to wear suits,but luckily,linen suits or jackets without ties are an option these days. A few men also wear smart hats,like bowlers.” For women too,the hat is probably a good idea,considering the weather in the country. As ad films producer Arti Surendranath points out,“People may laugh when they see pictures of standees wearing elaborate hats. But you really have to be there to know how hot it can get under the sun. If you don’t wear a hat,you’ll,at least,need a parasol.” Indeed,the hat has become more popular in the past five years,with women eager to experiment with head gear though many still make the cardinal mistake of letting their hat overwhelm their look.

So what are the key elements of Derby fashion? “A hat,sunglasses and good,glamorous leisure-wear,” Chhaya Momaya ticks off,“The idea is to look laidback and glamorous at the same time,so you can’t really go overboard with the bling.” Momaya,an image consultant,is of the opinion that hardly anyone in India manages to look good at the races. “We’re still not good at the ‘relaxed-chic’ look. Because the Derby is a formal event,people assume it’s okay to pile on as much glitter as possible. Some people go the other way and dress exactly how people do at races abroad and even go to the extent of wearing gloves. That is simply foolish,given our hot,tropical weather.”

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Another vital element is the footwear. Stylist Aki Narula says that one never knows what kind of surface one might be have to walk on and hence it’s important to wear a heel that’s low enough to still be sexy.

“Ditch the pencil heels,but don’t look frumpy,” he adds.

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