Restaurateur Rahul Akerkar says that to go Indian was a natural choice for his new enterprise,Neel Even Im surprised, laughs Rahul Akerkar,alluding to the widespread reaction that was generated upon the announcement to replace his restaurant Tote On The Turf with Neel,which will serve Awadhi,Hyderabadi and Lucknowi fare. It was a natural choice for two reasons. Firstly,the Indian dishes that we serve under deGustibus,our catering arm,have a huge following that encouraged us to consider Nawabi Muslim cuisine for our next enterprise. Secondly,our chef,Mukhtar Qureshi,belongs to the Awadh region and understands the cuisine well. In between trips to the kitchen,Akerkar chats with guests at the restaurants soft launch,before it officially opens on July 30. The restaurateur has admitted that the reason for closing down the restaurant,located at the Mahalaxmi Racecourse,was that Tote had failed to connect with its patrons and was eating into the clientele of his signature restaurant,Indigo. But he clearly isnt mulling over bygones and wears a big smile as he walks his guests around the verandah section that his wife Mailini has designed to replace the garden. The 25,000 square feet property,done mostly in white,earlier included a restaurant,banquets and a massive bar that even won various design awards. The revamp brings in few other changes: the bar,currently under renovation,is being redesigned to expand,and the restaurant menu has been changed to serve Indian food and a separate kitchen has been designed to suit the new operations. Weve only taken the tablecloths off, he smiles. The name Neel is literal translation of indigo,which he claims is his lucky charm. The menu is extensive and a mix of traditional favourites and many unique dishes. So alongside the more popular Sofiyana Paneer Tikka,Murgh Afghani Tandoori and Gosht Dum Ki Biryani,Neel also serves Chilgoze Ka Shorba (pine nut soup),Adrak Ke Panje (tandoor-roasted lamb chops) and Ulte Tawe Ka Paratha. However,Akerkar asserts that the dishes are authentic. Many have fallen into disuse. The city has no restaurants that serve authentic Nawabi food. About 160 such recipes have been archived for use. We begin the meal with a Sabz Santare Ka Shorba,a thick vegetable soup,poured over peeled slices of orange. The mild flavour brings out the tangy sweetness of the orange. Basnu Aur Singhada Ka Kabab wonderfully combines the unusual flavours of bamboo shoots and water chestnut. However,Jaituni Khumb Tikka,the mushroom tikka,is rather run-of-the-mill. Though Lucknow Seekh Kabab first threatens to fall into the same category,the flavour of meat,ground many times over,makes it succulent. In the main course,the Kashmiri Waza Kukkudu,chicken cooked in its own juices and yoghurt,disappoints since it lacks flavour; especially when compared with the Khatta Meetha Baingan when had with Bakhumaas,an extremely soft bread made from fermented dough flavoured with fennel. The fragrant Gucchi biryani,made with morels cooked in cheddar cheese and tender spices,and served with yoghurt and flavourful kadhi,can put most meat biryanis to shame. While it was easy to presume that it perfectly sums up the meal,the dessert Parde Me Khubani changed that. A blend of apricots with rabdi and the crunchy baked dough was delectable. It isnt without reason that Akerkar has been wearing that confident smile.
