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One of the citys oldest surviving restaurants is changing its food course. In its 100th year,Mama Kanes Swacha Uphargriha,the tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant known for its yummy home-made Maharashtrian delicacies will soon go multi-cuisine with Punjabi and even Chinese food.
It was among the earliest eateries to introduce the city to vada. People have varied demands now. We do not have air-conditioning facilities and options for food apart from the traditional Maharashtrian savouries, said Kamlakar Kane,who runs the restaurant along with brothers and sons. We will soon introduce Punjabi and may be even Chinese dishes. The original Marathi food will continue to be the main menu,though.
Started in 1910,Mama Kanes restaurant located outside Dadar station will complete 100 years this Wednesday.
Narayan Vishnu Kane was among those villagers from Konkan who migrated to Bombay in search of jobs in 1905. His first stop was Pen in Raigad. After a not-so-successful attempt at making Ganesh idols,for which the town is known for,Kane moved to Bombay. Dadar had a huge market place even then,where people from Vasai and other places would come to sell vegetables and flowers. Kane saw an opportunity in starting a food serving place as there were very few eateries around, said Kamlakar.
Kane started a small shack opposite to where the eatery stands now,selling tea,bhaji and other snacks. The place found takers amongst the poor vegetable Maharashtrian vendors who used to land in Dadar around 3 am for trade. Kanes mother and sister would make the food and the eatery was called Dakshini Brahmananche Swacha Uphargriha (a clean eatery of southern Brahmins) then,an acknowledgement to the familys Brahmin roots in Konkan.
In 1928,when Smruti Kunj building opposite Dadar station was constructed,Kane shifted to its present location -¿ the ground floor. Since most of the relatives and small kids used to call Kane mama (uncle),the eatery also got the name Mama Kanes.
The popularity of food and the cheap rates besides hygiene spread the word. The menu also changed; a rice plate was introduced in 1931,serving home-made Maharashtrian-style rice,dal and vegetables. Batatawada made its appearance on the menu minus paav around the same time. Its preparation,different from others in terms of masala used,enlarged its popularity. Thalipeeth,misal and other traditional Maharashtrian savouries were added later while kokam sarbat and piyush are amongst its popular drinks.
As the exodus of south Indians to the city began in the early 1960s,bringing along with it Udipi restaurants and other delicacies in and around Dadar,Mama Kane also had to update the menu to include idli,dosa and even sandwiches.
According to Kamlakar,there is no competition to their main menu though many small joints serving Maharashtrian food are functional in Girgaum,Dadar. Foodies and even youngsters continue to come here in search of good home-made Maharashtrian food. However,we need to update ourselves,keeping in tune with the changing times.
The restaurant will also be shifted temporarily as its building will make way for re-development in a years time.
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