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This is an archive article published on February 9, 2010

Gin Soaked Boy

Contrary to the headline,Xavier Padovani doesn’t come across as a drunk,but we are certain he’s seen some in his time.

Contrary to the headline,Xavier Padovani doesn’t come across as a drunk,but we are certain he’s seen some in his time. A congruous ambassador of a Scottish gin brand,Hendrick’s,Padovani has been an ambassador of a whisky brand and worked on the opening of the Sanderson hotel bar and the nightclub Opium in London. Despite the perception of gin being antiquated and perhaps even elitist,Padovani comfortably banters about the drink and simplifies it by stating “gin is precisely vodka with flavour.” He expands on this,saying gin is “produced by using neutral grain alcohol and infusing it with botanicals—under European rules juniper berries have to be the predominant flavour.”

Thus different brands of gin tend to have a unique and often secret recipe of various spices and botanicals; Hendrick’s uniquely uses rose and cucumber essence just before bottling,Padovani informs. He says that despite its popularity,the best vodkas tend to be the smoothest and therefore has no flavour. “It is a bit sad to consume a spirit that tastes of nothing,” he rues. He also explains that vodka has been popular with bartenders because it is easy to mix with other flavours since it is neutral. “I think gin challenges bartenders. Broadly,if you’re a lazy bartender you’re not going to work a lot with gin.”

Historically though,gin was the colourless spirit of choice for cocktails,with vodka gaining prominence only after the 1950s when American actors promoted the spirit. “Juniper infused drinks have been around since the 13th century,but gin itself was a Dutch invention in the 16th century.” Gin was,however,popularised by the British and initially was a poor person’s spirit. It wasn’t till the 1800s when it began to be favoured by the upper classes and was used in cocktails. “Jerry Thomas,the first American bartender to write a book on cocktails,wrote about various gin-based cocktails,including the Martinez,the precursor to the Martini,” Padovani beams. The invention of gin and tonic in British-occupied India was significant as it still remains a popular cocktail,despite the redundancy of consuming tonic water (which contains quinine) to prevent malaria.

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So where does gin go from here? Gin should,Padovani says,already be competing against flavoured vodkas. He believes that in the premium segment,it is already re-gaining ground over vodka. “In a way,gin is monotonous as it has always been the same. I have,however,noticed that it has overtaken vodka in terms of bartenders’ interest in top bars in London and New York. The question is,how can this be reflected in general consumption?” For this,Padovani thinks that bartenders have the responsibility to make cocktails that are more open and easy to re-create at home. He is liberal and thinks you should consume gin whichever way it suits you,even on the rocks or in a punch bowl.

Despite hoping for the above,Padovani doesn’t think Indians will switch from vodka to gin in droves. “I don’t see any future in consuming mass quantities of basic gin,” he says,citing the example of Spain which now consumes more gin than Britain. “Instead,I think vodka drinkers who are looking for something different should consume premium distilled gin and we are trying to target that market which has an educated palate.”

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