Folks behind The Bombay Canteen launch Papa’s, a 12-seater tasting menu-only fine dining in Mumbai’s Bandra

Perched atop Veronica’s, Papa’s also marks perhaps the most charming transformation of an attic which was once used for storage into a tasting-menu-only restaurant with a warm cocktail bar and an immersive dining room enveloping an open kitchen.

Hunger Inc. Hospitality’s executive chef Hussain Shahzad. (Photo courtesy: Special Arrangement)

The evening begins at the bar where guests are welcomed with a shot and small bites. The bar menu features a range of savoury cocktails. We chose Papa’s Hut. Their take on classic Bloody Mary, this one saw a smooth light concoction made using marinara sauce and vodka. It came with a tiny pizza box carrying a Monaco biscuit topped with marinara sauce and cheese. The Bebinka with black truffle and date was lip-smacking.

Moving to the dining area, the counter was repurposed from a wooden bar top from The Bombay Canteen. When it comes to food, we were informed that there are no rules. Our culinary journey included a savoury Shakarpara filled with crème fraîche, a Kashmiri twist on Wellington featuring layers of yakhni and morels for meat lovers and a delightful pumpkin makhni sauce for vegetarians. We also found comfort in a soup that saw winter peas from Jaipur in chhurpi broth and a salad that celebrated the coming together of tomato and strawberry but in the form of an ice gola.

Papa’s Hut, Wellington and Thayir Sadam at Papa’s. (Photo courtesy: Special Arrangement)

The standout dish was undoubtedly Thayir Sadam. This traditional curd rice was adorned with beetroot and accompanied by a tempura-fried shiso leaf, complemented by a flavourful garlic pickle beneath. Equally captivating was the Hakuna Matata, presenting rabbit skewers crowned with red ants from Odisha. For vegetarians, the skewers featured carrots and onion bulbs. Served with garlic mayo, hot amla sauce and jowar wraps on the side, it made for a hearty taco experience. We also thoroughly cherished Toastie, an ice cream sandwich with blue cheese, honey and figs.

While we enjoyed the food, we loved the storytelling even more. The three-hour-long dining experience saw a bunch of 12 people, including writers, entrepreneurs and artists, mingling with each other, vibing with the music (we learnt that the playlist has been curated by the chef himself), gossiping and chatting loudly, participating in amateur card tricks while having a merry time. At some point, a glass broke — a ritual if I may say at every house party after one has had one too many drinks.

Address: Papa’s at Veronica’s, Waroda Rd, Ranwar, Bandra West, Mumbai

Timings: Wednesday to Saturday, 8 pm onwards.

Price: Rs 4,750 plus taxes for vegetarians and Rs 4,950 plus taxes for non-vegetarians.

For reservations, call 77388 95597