When British jewellery designer Emma Chapman arrived in Goa from London in March,she knew what to expect vibrant colours of bonhomie. Last season she made colour fashionable when she showed in London and Paris,defying the preference for greys and pastels. Unfortunately,its dull in Europe and London and everyone is talking about the bad state of the economy and recession. The spirit in India,however,is sparkling and positive. I decided to set up base in India. People are afraid to do colour in London, says Chapman on a recent visit to Delhi where she retails from Ogaan. Her lines,including a Lakshmi pendant,can also be found in upmarket stores in Mumbai and Goa. Long before she set up home in Goa,Chapman was frequent traveler to Rajasthan where she picked up influences from the desert kingdom. The colours are very inspiring,especially when you see a lone woman walking down the desert in a red and yellow sari, she says. In these nervy fashion times,Chapman is among the several foreign designers who have decided to shift to India. Even as Indian designers look overseas,at international runways,these foreign names are eastward bound. Incidentally,the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI),Indias premier fashion body,doesnt accept members of foreign origin. Sunil Sethi,president of FDCI,confirmed,This rule has existed for 11 years since the inception of FDCI and the organization is set up basically to help Indian designers and procuring more business for them. The first priority is given to an Indian designer because we want business to come to them. Not that this deterred Greek-Lebanese designer Alecca Carrano who moved to Delhi from south France with her Italian architect husband in 2006. For me,it was a professional challenge. I have been in this industry for 20 years,having worked in New York for 17 years and then in France. Europe was getting kind of boring,people were not open and it wasnt easy to start ones own business; India seemed like an exciting destination and here we can get buyers from the Middle East,Singapore and Japan, says the 40-something Carrano. Her signature designs combine minimalism with detailing like bold ruffles which were a hit at the Delhi Fashion Week where she showcased in March. Today,she presides over a staff of 20 in her company Wrap Fashion and retails to 16 stores across India including one at Sunder Nagar. The collection is quite popular in Ogaan, smiles Carrano. A-listers like socialite Tanisha Mohan have been spotted in her designs though these names still mean little to the designer. I look upon celebrities as any other clientele, laughs Carrano. She tried for an FDCI membership but was turned down. Meanwhile,Norwegian designer Julie Skarland,46,for whom a brief stopover for production possibilities in 2005 turned out into an extended stay,shut shop on the 9th avenue in Paris to open operations in Delhi. On the professional front,I do not find it difficult to run a business here. The artisans and weavers are excellent, says Skarland,who made her Indian debut at DFW in March. She hasnt severed her Nordic connection; a fashion show at the Norwegian embassy saw 30 ensembles- dresses,jackets,trousers and cocktail gowns inspired by her Norwegian roots. The colours were muted,ranging from smoked blue and fawn to beige and ivory,and the embellishments blended Indian extravagance with her Norwegian sensibilities. Her collection is mostly retailed in Norway and she is waiting to make inroads into the Indian market. British designer duo Reem Archibald,43,and Jo Butler Dwyer,48,have tried to fill a gap in childrens wear. Their line of smocks with paisley patterns and Nehru shirts for boys between two and eight years,are popular with the citys fashionable set. The duo also sells tunics with drawstrings,embroidered kaftans and printed shirts in silk and cotton under the label Khush that started last September. They operate from Lajpat Nagar,Nehru Place and Shankar Market,and say that they keep a firm eye for detailing and finish. Thats a success mantra anywhere in the world.
