Design Well-Defined

It’s reminiscent of a bungalow that has rooms in a row,all of which are separated with small doorways but without doors. The first area houses Rai’s collections,hung in niches. Given this month of the year is transit period for most designers — a time when some spring-summer ensembles are still present on the racks to be soon replaced with samples of the coming season — the collection is a mix. There are georgette suits with delicate embroideries and finished dupattas in bright hues hung alongside pure white chikankari ensembles. The suits mostly have A-line silhouettes with texturing and fabric contrasts used as accents instead of heavy sequin or stone work.

We arrive in the evening and catch Rai busy addressing a client in the studio’s second area. It’s here that she meets people for customised work and fittings. The workshop housed on level three has her staff flit in and out for measurements and other instructions. The scenes in this designer’s den seem disconnected from the buzz outside. “It’s a central spot,yet away from it all,” says the reticent designer. Known for subtle elements in her designs,Rai is unlike other popular designers in the city who address the Punjabi-NRI clientèle with their flamboyant designs with a high dose of “full on” bling and embellishments. “For me,less is more. I rarely design anything with embroidery all over it,” says Rai.

The designer likes to work with a variety of textiles — silk brocade,georgette and chiffon — but keeps her styling relatively fuss free. Her current collection boasts of long,flowy kurtas with subtle use of gota and traditional embroideries. Aari and Parsi embroideries seem to be her favourites along with chikankari and tilla (mokaish) work. “Personally,I find longer kurtas with an A-line cut more suited for the Indian body type,” says the designer who uses colours to her advantage. Peach,orange,aubergine,turquoise aren’t hard to spot in her work. We particularly liked her use of gotta-patti work on chikankari on a few outfits. While there seems to be a repetition in her styles,the collection at Kontours will appeal to those who prefer the subtleties in fashion design. A formal wear suit will set you back by Rs 7,000.