A Meatier Menu

But this isn’t to say that India doesn’t have its fair share of exotic meats. Earlier only five-star hotels had the wherewithal to be able to source and serve unusual meats,and indeed catered to a clientele,which didn’t mind experimenting with such fare. This is no longer the case. And it really is a point,which can’t be reiterated enough,that TV series such as Masterchef and channels such as Travel & Living have opened the public’s eyes to new ingredients and cooking methods from around the world.

In Delhi,a lot of regional restaurants are now getting into the act,serving up indigenous dishes from their place of origin. Popular eateries such as Yeti,which serves Himalayan fare,and Gunpowder,which serves South Indian,brazenly put a variety of buff (buffalo meat) preparations on their menus,without worrying about stigmatisation. And consumers,instead of minding,seem to relish the opportunity to try new meats.

“Chicken still tops the list as the most popular item in any restaurant’s menu,” says Chef Ajay Chopra,executive chef at The Westin Mumbai Garden City,Goregaon,adding,“Nonetheless,the demand for meats that aren’t generally consumed at home — especially pork,duck,beef and imported fish — is on the rise. This shows that Indians are becoming more exploratory in their tastes.”

So,while a majority of Indians are still hesitant to try out new and unusual items,chefs are now taking a personal interest in promoting new tastes. “It’s all about educating your guests,many of who are now very well-travelled and know how to identify good quality meats,” says Chef Vicky Ratnani,executive chef at Aurus,Juhu,Mumbai. “We train our front-of-house staff so they can communicate to the diners about what cuts we have on offer,where the meat is coming from and how it is being prepared,” he adds.

Chef Saby of Olive Bar and Kitchen,Delhi,says,“India has always had restrictions on the type of meats that can be served in restaurants. More than religious taboos,I think this is to do with a genuine respect for nature,which is great. The markets are slowly opening up,with exotic meats such as snails,eels,rabbits and pork tongues becoming more accessible. Now,you can farm-rear rabbits and emu,which means these meats can be served in restaurants. But I don’t think that these meats will ever replace chicken and mutton as the primary proteins in the consumer’s mind.”