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Journalism of Courage
On a typical day in Varanasi, you’ll hear the cacophony of conch shells, the roar of resonant mantras, the whispers of countless wishes, and the cultural ethos of a rich past. Yet all the murmurs fade away the moment you look at the poetic rhythm of the Ganges or are slapped by the truth of mortality from across the burning pyres of Manikarnika Ghat.
The ancient city, also known as Banaras and Kashi, has always been a magnet for visitors from all walks of life: mystics, artists, poets, travelers, architecture connoisseurs, or those battling internal monologues. Even in the age of social media, its popularity remains unparalleled (and reels are countless).
IRCTC has now made the city even more accessible by introducing a new Vande Bharat Express train – an extension of the current Meerut-Lucknow route. Spanning 783 km, the semi-high-speed train commences its journey in Meerut and reaches its destination in 11 hours and 50 minutes, making five stops along the way: Hapur, Moradabad, Bareilly, Lucknow NR, and Ayodhya, its newest stop.
You can choose from the two seating arrangements on train numbers 22490 and 22489: AC Chair Cars and Executive Chair Cars, both known for their comfortable travel experiences.
With this renewed ease of travel, if the explorer in you decides to pay the city a visit, do not forget to tick these experiences off your list! However, the city currently has a flood warning issued due to excessive rainfall and submerged ghats — so, you might want to hold your plans for a bit!
There’s something poetic about watching the sunrise with Vedic chanting in the background. It quietens the chaos and draws you inwards. The beautiful mornings at Assi Ghat are punctuated with devotees offering prayers, locals practicing yoga, and a tranquility that defines the aura. The Subah-e-Banaras program, which begins before sunrise, is a daily ritual that inspires visitors with classical music and performances.
A trip to Banaras is incomplete without attending the grand Ganga Aarti in the evening. Dressed in saffron, the priests perform synchronised offerings to the river with fire, smoke, flower petals, and incense. The entire riverfront is a stunning visual to behold. While the ritual begins only after the sun sets, a crowd starts gathering much before. Also, many boat rowers might charge you an exorbitant extra fee for “front view” seats, so always cross-check the prices with locals before paying.
Even a simple stroll through the bylanes of Banaras feels like walking through a colourful canvas. Each wall tells a story, evoking a profound sense of connection to our cultural heritage. From ancient temples to age-old sweet shops, each turn holds a story. While you surrender to the art, do not forget to savor the local delicacies here, including malaiyyo (a winter dessert), tamatar chaat, blue lassi, or probably bhang, if you are in the mood.
Kashi Vishwanath temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, making it one of the most sacred Hindu temples in the world. Devotees from across borders pay a visit to this ancient temple, with queues beginning to form as early as three in the morning. On a typically busy day, the queues might extend throughout the webbed lanes. While the temple region has now been redeveloped under the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor Project, the original gold-dipped temple, believed to be more than 2,000 years old, still stands intact. The towering spires and constant chants instill a deep sense of reverence.
Whether at dawn or dusk, a boat ride along the ghats is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It typically takes visitors along the entire bank, with the oarsman describing the significance and local lore of each ghat. It’s a moving postcard of Varanasi — priests offering prayers, children diving into the river, and centuries-old palaces watching over it all. One of the most striking experiences is rowing past the Manikarnika Ghat, where funeral pyres are lit throughout the day.
