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Journalism of Courage
If you have walked around Mumbai’s Fort area recently, heading from Flora Fountain towards Bombay House, you might have noticed a deep green facade with ‘Nandan Coffee’ in neon yellow, nestled inside the heritage building, Mulla House. The large glass windows, offering a glimpse of the expansive coffee bar inside, are inviting enough to make you want to step in for a cup of coffee—or, if you’re in a hurry, to make a mental note to return later. We couldn’t resist either.
Founded by the Mariwala family, who have a rich legacy as third-generation coffee growers and roasters, Nandan Coffee’s roots trace back to the late 1980s or early 1990s when Hansraj Mariwala, a biochemist, purchased a 40-acre parcel of nearly-barren land down south in Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu. By late ‘90s, he began cultivating coffee there, with his wife Hansa roasting and grinding beans at home and making coffees for their guests, which piqued everyone’s interest. The estate, known as Nandanvan, earned its first organic certification in 2001, and the coffee was soon being sold to friends and family, as well as select customers across India.
The current torchbearer, 28-year-old Yahvi Mariwala, inherited this passion and took a deeper dive into the coffee business in 2017. Subsequently, she expanded the brand’s presence through pop-ups and partnerships, including The White Crow Books & Coffee and Bombay Shirt Company in Mumbai, and Foodstories in Delhi. Last year, after six months of persistent effort, Yahvi secured this space in Fort to open the immersive experience centre, which has quickly become a popular spot.
With various blends available, Nandan Coffee caters to both coffee enthusiasts seeking a deep dive as well as casual visitors looking for a good cappuccino or cold coffee. There are four cold blends on tap, including the classic cold kappi (Rs 330) and a refreshing seasonal brew tonic (Rs 360), currently in raspberry flavour. For those who prefer espresso, the menu features four blends—Royal Medium, Gold Medium, Espresso Medium Dark, and Royal Dark—each served with a card detailing the blend’s flavour profile and tasting notes. Adventurous visitors can even mix and match nine blends to create their own custom coffee profile to take home. “If not the only one, we are perhaps among the very few who grow, roast, grind, and brew our own coffee, sourced from a single estate in Kodaikanal,” noted Yahvi.
Complementing the coffee experience are freshly baked croissants and cookies from Gauri Devidayal’s Mag St Bread Co, along with a limited but wholesome menu designed by Reshma Sanghi.
We sampled their hearty, beautifully presented Nachni Porridge (Rs 545), featuring a base of porridge topped with peanut butter, hung curd, berry compote, banana, granola, and almonds. The Avocado Muhammara Toast (Rs 645), made with estate-grown avocados, came on sourdough with muhammara, guacamole, arugula, feta, and crushed nuts. The creamy Parsley Hummus (Rs 445), served with sautéed vegetables and a slice of bread, was so delightful that we polished off every bite. We can definitely see ourselves returning for both the coffee and the soul-satisfying meals.
Where: Ground Floor, Mulla House, Near Flora Fountain, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai
When: 8 am to 7 pm
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