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Journalism of Courage
Growing up, I never missed an episode of MasterChef Australia, helmed by chef Gary Mehigan, George Calombaris, and food critic Matt Preston. The show became a haven for me, exploring unheard-of dishes vicariously while chomping on a box of cold pizza.
After 11 seasons as a judge, Mehigan left the show. He has since travelled the world, exploring different cuisines and visiting India repeatedly which he now considers his second home.
So, when Mehigan flew to India this time to host an exclusive dinner with Ardmore from the Beam Suntory portfolio, indianexpress.com had the chance to interview the renowned chef about everything under the realm of cooking – from his favourite Indian street food to memorable travel stories in our country. Excerpts:
Chef Gary Mehigan: I find immense joy in having survived a career in hospitality and restaurants, being a chef for many years. Unlike many young people who change industries before genuinely delving into their craft, I have found great pleasure in mastering mine. There’s a continuous process of learning for me.
I enjoy immersing myself in new places and asking questions like, “What’s unique to this region? What should I taste? What should I drink?” This ongoing exploration is thrilling to me. While my training is rooted in classic French cuisine, I’ve also been influenced by Spanish, Italian, and, since my move to Australia, Southeast Asian cuisines like Thai, Vietnamese, and Japanese. The learning never stops, and every new recipe I discover becomes a new favourite.
I’m not one to be confined by culinary boundaries. I don’t want to limit myself to cooking only French bistro fare or traditional Italian dishes. I relish the opportunity to experiment and innovate, whether it’s adding a chaat to the menu or playing with flavours from the Himalayas. Variety and creativity are key for me.
Chef Gary Mehigan: A combination of factors has deepened my connection to Indian cuisine. Over the past few years, I’ve had the opportunity to collaborate with Conosh, who have been instrumental in spreading the message of great Indian food worldwide.
Working with them has allowed me to showcase Australian produce and flavours while bringing my own culinary creations to an Indian audience.
Additionally, my involvement in India’s Mega Festivals with Nat Geo has been eye-opening. Filming 10 episodes, including the recent Holla Mahalla in Punjab, has fuelled my fascination and love for India. Unlike previous visits focused mainly on business or food tours, these experiences have allowed me to delve deeper into India’s rich cultural history.
Attending auspicious festivals like Durga Puja, the Chithirai Festival, Onam, and Holi has been particularly enlightening. With each visit, I immerse myself more deeply, conduct research, and uncover the vibrant tapestry of Indian culinary traditions. India has become like a second home to me, and I miss it whenever I leave. A certain charm and allure keeps drawing me back time and again.
Chef Gary Mehigan: I’ve had the pleasure of exploring various street food delicacies across India, and there are so many favourites to choose from. In Tamil Nadu, for instance, I discovered bun parotta — a quintessential local delight that’s utterly delicious. I vividly remember the delightful sight of a young man expertly preparing these tissue-thin, crispy parathas, served with an array of flavourful gravies. It was truly wonderful.
Travelling up north to the Himalayas, I indulged in thukpa and momos — staples of the region. In Nagaland, the culinary experience was unique, with a focus on foraged and fermented ingredients like chicken with fermented bamboo shoots, naga pork, and fermented mustard greens, even including insects. Wherever I go in India, there’s always something new and exciting to discover.
One particularly memorable find in Nagaland was a sticky rice delicacy that resembled a kachori, deep-fried to crispy perfection on the outside while remaining delightfully puffy and chewy inside. It was an exquisite blend of textures and flavours that left a lasting impression.
However, my current favourite street food might surprise you — it’s chai. There’s something special about standing on a bustling street, sipping on a steaming cup of masala chai. Over the years, I’ve honed my palate to discern the nuances of a well-prepared chai, whether it’s brewed with freshly grated ginger, black pepper, or cardamom. Whether I’m in Kolkata, watching the trams go by, or amidst the hustle and bustle of Delhi, a perfectly brewed cup of chai never fails to delight me. It’s a quintessential Indian favourite that holds a special place in my heart.
Chef Gary Mehigan: I’m actually enjoying a resurgence in some of the old classics lately. There’s a noticeable revival of classic terrines, roulades, and other traditional dishes that were somewhat neglected, including construction that we left behind around 25 years ago. People stopped fussing around and attempting to alter the textures of food or create multiple layers, so it’s refreshing to see chefs revisiting these old techniques and incorporating them into modern culinary creations.
For example, you might find a dish featuring fish wrapped in a delicate fish mousse, then encased in squash blossoms and gently steamed, served with a simple sauce. Or consider a lamb Wellington — reminiscent of the classic beef version but with a twist. These dishes showcase technical skills and bring a sense of nostalgia to the dining experience.
I’m particularly fond of this trend because it offers diners something unique and memorable — delicious flavours with a touch of sophistication that you can’t easily replicate at home. When you dine out, you sometimes want to enjoy dishes that elevate your culinary experience beyond what you could create in your own kitchen.
Chef Gary Mehigan: Well, it’s been both a blessing and a curse. When I started my first restaurant in 2000, we promoted ourselves using traditional methods like food critics, newspapers, and print publications. But now, with the rise of social media, everything has changed.
People use platforms like Instagram and Google reviews to decide where to eat, often based on various factors. Whether it’s a high review score on Google or a mouthwatering photo on Instagram, social media plays a huge role in shaping dining choices.
On one hand, social media allows for instant sharing of information. I can see what chefs worldwide are serving in real time, which is amazing compared to waiting weeks for a cookbook. But on the flip side, it’s led to a saturation of trends. Similar dishes are popping up everywhere, making it hard to find something unique.
Some chefs are even stepping back from social media to avoid being influenced by the masses. However, I still find value in engaging with fans, sharing recipes, and asking for suggestions. It’s a two-way street of information exchange, and that’s the real positive side of social media.
Chef Gary Mehigan: Well, I love walking my dogs, Fergus and Molly. They’re such great companions. I’m also an avid motorcyclist, enjoying the freedom of the open road. Gardening is another hobby I cherish. I have a beautiful garden where I grow quinces, apples, raspberries, roses, dahlias, plenty of herbs like basil, and citrus fruits like lemons and limes.
Living in the countryside outside Melbourne allows me to fully disconnect from my busy schedule. After a stint of work and travel, I relish returning home, even if it’s just for a brief hiatus before I’m off again. So, when people ask what I’ve been up to during those breaks, I say: taking a well-deserved break.
Chef Gary Mehigan: I’m a fan of staying active. I enjoy physical activities like gardening, which may sound trivial to someone younger, but at 57, it’s a fulfilling workout. Tending to our sizable garden — doing tasks like weeding, mowing the lawn, and cleaning the pool — easily adds up to a five-hour workout.
Additionally, I cycle regularly and swim a few kilometres each week. I squeeze in these activities whenever I can, practising what I call “snackable exercise.” It’s all about making time for fitness amidst a busy schedule.
Chef Gary Mehigan: Well, that’s a tough question, but my wife, Mandy, doesn’t cook much, so when she does, I truly cherish it.
She often jokes that I take over the kitchen, constantly instructing her on what to do. And sometimes, she just steps aside and lets me handle it. So, when she takes the initiative to cook for me, it’s really special.
In fact, I relish the experience when friends cook for me, too. There’s something inherently beautiful about sharing a meal prepared by someone else. I recall a dinner party where new friends served Ossobuco, an Italian braised dish that wasn’t quite cooked through.
Despite the mishap, we improvised, popped it back in the oven, opened another bottle of wine, and turned it into a memorable evening filled with laughter and good conversation. So, in essence, the gesture and the shared experience truly matter to me.
Chef Gary Mehigan: There are countless memorable moments, especially from the festivals I’ve had the privilege to experience. One particularly memorable occasion was during Eid when we shared a meal together before the fasting period began. Moments like these make you realise how fortunate you are.
Then there are the simpler but equally impactful experiences, like sharing a plate of momos with the crew in Laila Dhak or enjoying langars at the Gurudwaras. Sitting on the floor, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, partaking in a humble meal of dal, rice, subzi, chapati, and perhaps some kheer, creates lasting memories. Like little snapshots, these moments will always stay with me, reminding me of the beauty of shared experiences and the richness of Indian culture.
Chef Gary Mehigan: Dining has been evolving rapidly, especially after Covid-19. There’s a growing interest in diverse dining experiences, particularly in cocktails. With the rise of accolades like the World’s 50 Best Bars award, which includes bars from Singapore, Hong Kong, and India, there’s a noticeable shift towards innovative and exciting cocktail culture. Given that Indians have a penchant for whiskey over wine, and whiskey pairs effortlessly with food, collaborating with Ardmore seemed like a natural choice.
