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Journalism of Courage
Online travel and food guide TasteAtlas recently released a list tracing the timelines of iconic global foods. While many of these dishes have evolved across centuries and cultures, their historical origins offer a fascinating glimpse into the endurance of everyday favourites.
The good news is that dosa features prominently in the list, dating back to 8th-century South India. According to the TasteAtlas post, “Historical records indicate early dosas were thicker, evolving into today’s thin, crisp version as wide griddles and refined rice flour became common.”
The list goes even further back. At the top sits sauerkraut –– fermented cabbage linked to the 1st-century Roman Empire. Soy sauce, in second place, traces its roots to ancient China’s Western Han Dynasty, while miso soup became popular in 7th-century Japan, especially among sumo wrestlers.
The 9th and 10th centuries saw the emergence of hearty staples like borscht in Ukraine – originally made with a wild, sour-stemmed plant – and gulyás in Hungary, a portable stew carried by cattlemen. Couscous and hummus appear in 13th-century Algeria and Syria, respectively. By the 16th through 19th centuries, we see the rise of globally beloved items like empanadas (Spain), gelato (Italy), pierogi (Poland), linzer torte (Austria), madeleines (France), pizza (Italy), and the hamburger (United States of America).
TasteAtlas, in the post, added a disclaimer: “While these timelines reflect widely accepted scholarly consensus, they should be seen as informed estimates rather than definitive facts, and may be revised as historians uncover additional sources and context.”
Khichdi stands as perhaps our most enduring dish. Alok Singh, a food historian and science expert at Diga Organics, notes that it “was mentioned in early Sanskrit texts and was a staple during the Mauryan era. It continues to be a comfort food across Indian households, with regional variations in spices and lentils.” Even street foods like chana or chickpeas, often served today as chaat or sundal, can be traced back to ancient times when legumes were a dietary cornerstone.
While dosa’s 8th-century debut makes headlines, India’s culinary story stretches far deeper. Singh pointed to even older survivors: “Some of the oldest dishes still widely consumed in India today include idli, dosa, khichdi, sattu, and paniyaram. These originated in ancient kitchens and evolved across generations,” he told indianexpress.com.
Among them, khichdi stands out as perhaps the most enduring. “It was mentioned in early Sanskrit texts and was a staple during the Mauryan era. It remains a comfort food across India, with countless regional variations,” Singh said. Even humble street snacks like chana (chickpeas)—now popular as chaat or sundal—have deep roots, with legumes forming a dietary cornerstone in ancient diets.
Yet not all traditional dishes have endured. “Dum pukht dishes in their original royal form are rarely made at home today due to the time and complexity involved. Similarly, recipes involving multi-day fermentation or wild greens are nearly extinct,” Singh said, attributing this decline to urbanisation, changing lifestyles, and a shift towards convenience.
“Younger generations often don’t know these recipes simply because they’re no longer part of daily life or community celebrations,” he said.
A growing number of chefs are becoming cultural custodians, breathing new life into forgotten recipes. At The Kumaon, head chef Naveen has revived Bhatt ki Churkani, a traditional black soybean dish that had “nearly vanished from mainstream menus.” General Manager Abhinav Trivedi said, “We brought it back for its flavour, nutritional value, and cultural relevance. It tells the story of mountain resilience and seasonality.”
In Varanasi’s BrijRama Palace, chef Satya Prakash Mishra has resurrected Katha Meetha Kaddu from royal Maratha kitchens. His philosophy: “We stay true to the core recipe and technique, but adapt subtly—perhaps in portion size, plating, or spice intensity to suit today’s palate.”
Mishra’s reflection is moving. “Food is memory made tangible. When I revive an old recipe, I’m not just recreating a dish—I’m bringing back a piece of our collective past. These flavours have witnessed prayer, celebration, silence, and storytelling. My responsibility is to carry them forward with reverence, not reinvention—to let them speak again, softly but clearly, in a world that’s forgotten how to listen,” he told indianexpress.com.
At Compass Group India, chief culinary officer Arjyo Banerjee approaches revival with a scientific lens. “A lot of what we now consider ancient Indian food was deeply scientific. It was about understanding digestion, health, seasonality, regionality, even the logic of food pairings. My journey into reviving these principles was guided by two books — Charak Samhita and Ksemakutuhalam,” he told indianepress.com.
This has led to innovations like Chhachh Murghi—a buttermilk-soaked chicken curry designed for gut health, and Poika Bhaat, a spinach rice dish inspired by the classification of spinach as the “queen of vegetables,” which, per the text, must be paired with rice, not wheat.
Banerjee also leads the Responsible Biryani initiative, using Kodo millet instead of white rice. “It’s not about making indulgent food ‘healthy’. It’s about rethinking indulgence itself. The goal is to honour tradition while adapting it to today’s context,” he said.
Chef Ranjan Majumdar at Mayfair Spring Valley Resort champions Assamese cuisine. His menu includes Fish Masoor Tenga—a tangy mustard oil curry using souring agents like elephant apple or dried mangosteen—and other dishes such as Bora Sawul, Til Pitha, and Ghila Pitha. “These dishes are culturally rich and deserve more visibility on both regional and national menus,” he said.
Across the globe in California, chef Sanjay Patel reimagines Bihar’s Pancha Phoran Tarkari with “charred heirloom vegetables, cold-pressed mustard oil, and a panch phoran crust served over smoked lentil mash.”
“After working in Central America, Europe, and 25+ years in the US, I’ve realised we’re not just cooks, we’re cultural custodians,” Patel said. “I’ve seen how food tells the story of a people.”
Singh pointed out that traditional recipes constantly evolve: “New ingredients like tomatoes, chillies, and potatoes, introduced during colonial trade, changed the Indian palate forever.”
Still, resistance remains. Chef Majumdar noted, “Diners often hesitate to try unfamiliar or region-specific dishes, preferring safer options.” His workaround? Storytelling. “When we share the origin, ingredients, and inspiration behind each dish, it builds a personal connection.”
Abhinav Trivedi agreed: “There’s often initial hesitation, especially with lesser-known flavours or milder spice profiles. But once guests understand a dish’s provenance, they embrace it.”
Technology has emerged as a powerful ally. “Platforms like Instagram and YouTube are now digital archives, helping spotlight lost recipes and techniques,” Singh said.
Chef Banerjee’s Heritage Kitchen initiative exemplifies this digital revival: “It’s a platform where we collaborate with heritage heroes—home chefs, food revivalists, culinary enthusiasts. They bring deep knowledge, and we support them with scale, design, and culinary tech.”
The pandemic has accelerated interest in traditional foods. Chef Banerjee said, “There has been a noticeable shift since the pandemic. People are more open to traditions that were passed down across generations. Whether it is in the form of ingredients or culinary rituals, there is a hunger for rediscovery.”
Chef Patel’s experience reflected this change. He said, “Resistance usually comes as hesitation. People ask, ‘What is this?’ But once I tell them the story—how it was made, where it came from—they lean in. And when they return asking for it by name, that’s the reward.”
Chef Naveen notes, “Chefs today are more than just creators, they’re custodians of culture.” It is clear that the revival of ancient Indian dishes represents more than culinary nostalgia; it’s cultural reclamation.
“Chefs are modern-day archivists,” said Chef Mishra. “We don’t just cook—we narrate stories through recipes. By reading old manuscripts, listening to local elders, and experimenting in the kitchen, we keep our heritage alive.”
From khichdi in wellness bowls to forgotten Kumaoni dishes on fine-dining menus, India’s culinary story continues to evolve, rooted in tradition, yet alive to the times.
