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Paris is the land of Alain Ducasse, the Larousse Gastronomique, and the birthplace of some of the most elevated sauces and cooking techniques chefs use worldwide. Thanks to well-travelled gastronome friends of mine, I was pointed in the direction of some landmark restaurants and able to try some classic Parisian fare. Now, a word of caution: if you’re a vegetarian, good luck in Paris. The Parisian concept of vegetables is potatoes done many ways – sometimes fried or roasted in lard. Also, French classics include ingredients that most people might shy away from.
On my first night in Paris, I headed to Chez Savy, located in the heart of the 8th arrondissement, just around the corner from the Champs-Élysées. Set up in 1923, this tiny bistro with cosy seating, white tablecloths, and steel luggage racks running along the walls transports you back in time. It’s known for its foie gras, lentil soup, and andouillette sausage. However, my friend and I stuck to bone marrow – slow-roasted bones where the marrow becomes soft and jammy, served with toasts – escargots (snails) with parsley and butter, oysters, rillettes, beef tartare, and duck breast medallions. And, of course, lots of wine. Their portions are generous, and a wine carafe serves more than a bottle while costing less. The restaurant is almost 100 years old and is considered the smallest of the great Parisian brasseries. It’s so popular that there’s no chance of getting a table without a reservation. Definitely recommended.
The French are famous for eating anything that moves, which explains the snails. But, archaeological findings show that it was the Romans who first realised the virtues of eating escargot. They used to prepare it with milk and wine. It was during the Renaissance that escargots began being served at banquets in the royal court in France, becoming associated with sophistication and fine dining. At Chez Savy, you’re served the famous escargots à la Bourguignonne from the Burgundy region, cooked in garlic and parsley butter. Simply divine.
The next day, I finally tried one of my favorite dishes at Au Pied de Cochon, as old as India. It was a 30-minute walk from the Louvre, a very short distance by Parisian standards. Opened in 1947, it was the first restaurant to offer continuous 24-hour service and remains open 24/7 even today.
Since the French refuse to serve anything other than delicious potatoes roasted in lard or French fries as a side, I broke tradition and asked for a bean salad – one of only three vegetarian options on the menu. I followed it up with oysters, frog’s legs, and the most delicious Baba au Rum, a rum-soaked cake with cream, served with a bottle of spiced rum for dousing the cake.
Now, before you wrinkle your nose, frog’s legs are a delicacy – a tastier version of chicken. At one point, the Oberoi Grand Hotel in erstwhile Calcutta used to serve Frogs’ Legs and Escargots in their French restaurant. France is one of the many countries that eat frogs’ legs, and it’s believed that French monks started eating them during Lent, when meat was prohibited. By the 12th century, frogs were equated with fish, allowing monks to indulge.
Au Pied de Cochon has an old-world charm, with wooden furniture, white tablecloths, liveried waiters, and cosy seating. You’ll need to book in advance, so make sure you’ve worked up an appetite before you get there.
My last meal was at Chez Andre, established in 1936 and located in the posh “Golden Triangle.” The seafood selection greets you at the entrance. The zinc bar, bistro tables, and waitresses in black dresses are throwbacks to another era. The restaurant was packed on a Sunday evening, with tables set exceptionally close together, but you will spot guests of all sizes and shapes happily squeezing in, eager for the food.
We enjoyed a beautifully flavoured crab and avocado tartare (inspired by our neighboring table), langoustines (what we call prawns in India), followed by oysters, bone marrow, duck confit, and grilled duck medallions. It was the perfect end to my trip.
These old-world restaurants are Parisian landmarks serving classic French dishes. The waiters and managers were exceptionally friendly, with none of the famous Parisian snootiness on display. My only advice is always to make a reservation and be prepared for plenty of butter.
The solution to all the butter, wine, and indulgence is simple: keep walking. Visit every museum, explore the streets, and then sup on these culinary gems without hesitation.
Vive la Paris.
