Can keratin hair treatments cause kidney problems? This is what a new study suggests

To investigate the matter further, we reached out to an expert to verify this claim.

According to Dr Urmila Anandh, HOD of nephrology at Amrita Hospital, Faridabad, in earlier days, keratin-based hair treatments contained formaldehyde, which led to adverse reactions to the hair, skin, and eyes. However, this chemical compound was replaced with glycolic acid.

“When glycolic acid metabolises, it becomes glyoxylic acid, and finally forms oxalate, which in turn harms the kidneys,” Dr Anandh explained. “Glycolic acid is absorbed into the bloodstream and gets converted into oxalate, causing kidney damage,” she added.

Another paper published in the American Journal of Kidney Diseases revealed similar findings. The researchers retrospectively identified 26 patients in Israel who experienced severe AKI after opting for hair-straightening products. “Seven patients underwent kidney biopsies, which demonstrated intratubular calcium oxalate deposition in 6 and microcalcification in tubular cells in 1,” the study noted.

Not only this, glycolic acid is a common ingredient found in various products, such as cleaners, toners, serums, and moisturisers, which according to Dr Anandh can pose certain risks to the kidneys, but the results are inconclusive. “The concentration of glycolic acid is not as high in skincare products as it is in keratin-based hair treatments where it is a main constituent.”

While glycolic acid is generally considered safe for topical use, Dr DM Mahajan, senior consultant, dermatology, Indraprastha Apollo Hospitals, said there is a possibility of systemic absorption, especially if used excessively or on damaged skin. However, the risk associated with normal, recommended use of glycolic acid skincare products is considered low, with no definitive link to kidney damage.

Health experts call for more in-depth studies to understand the implications of keratin-based hair straightening products on kidneys.

Dr Mahajan advises to exercise caution with keratin treatments. “Proper ventilation and protective gear, such as gloves and masks, should be worn during application. These treatments should be used sparingly and according to the manufacturer’s instructions,” he said.

Additionally, Dr Anandh advises consulting your dermatologist, choosing certified salons, and not opting for them frequently.

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