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Gen Z: Whipping her way to success

India now has a growing food scene, pastry included, but it is still hard to pursue a professional career in the field. We had a tough time sourcing the finances/student loan for my education, often being turned away from well-reputed banks because it is not considered a STEM-related or traditional career path. I hope to change the perception of the hospitality and food field in India.

national medal, devika manchanda, chandigarhDevika Manchanda. (Express Photo)
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“Baking and cooking can bring such joy, especially in trying times like the pandemic. Isn’t it special to see how something simple and comforting like banana bread could help us feel some normalcy?” Devika Manchanda’s love for food shined when she became the only Indian to compete against 20 competitors from across the United States of America and bag a silver medal after the coveted seven-hour-long Baking and Pastry Arts Competition in the US. Originally from Chandigarh, this graduate from the Culinary Institute of America, New York where she studied Baking and Pastry Arts, talks about her mega win, her love for pastry and representing the Indian diaspora on an international stage. Currently working as the Lead Pastry Cook at Gabriel Kruether, a 2 Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City, this 22-year-old with multiple awards and distinctions, and a rich experience as a pastry cook and chocolatier in New York, Philadelphia, Florida and New Delhi dreams of opening her own restaurant in India. Excerpts from her interview.

Q. Tell us about the competition, your journey and the process in the run-up to win the medal.

Devika: The journey began in November last year when I got the opportunity to be one of the two students to represent my college – the Culinary Institute of America – at the State level at SkillsUSA, an international Baking and Pastry Arts competition in Wellsville, New York on April 1st, 2023. As part of the competition, I had to produce a variety of bread, pastries and decorated cakes to specific standards in a high-pressure environment. With positive reinforcement and constructive criticism, my coach, Certified Master Baker Jesse Jackson III was instrumental in helping me stay steady and focused because this is an industry where everything happens behind the scenes and appreciation in the service sector is a rarity. I won the gold medal for my performance in the 5-hour-long competition and went on to represent the state of New York at the National Leadership and Skills Conference in Atlanta, Georgia. The competition took place from June 19th-23rd, 2023 and included the participation of over 19,000 students, teachers, and exhibitors. After rigorous training, my efforts bore fruit at the 7-hour-long competition in the form of the silver medal at the national level. Being the only Indian in the Baking and Pastry Arts Competition, against 20 competitors from all over the United States, I am proud to have represented the Indian diaspora.

Q. Competing on an international level with probably no Indians around can be daunting.

It was definitely daunting being the only person who looks so different compared to the competition – you are always left wondering if you will be taken seriously and judged fairly compared to the rest. But I am proud of where I come from, lucky to have the opportunity and grateful. Remember to take care of yourself – physically and mentally, and don’t listen to the naysayers!

Devika Manchanda’s love for food shined when she became the only Indian to compete against 20 competitors from across the United States of America, and bag a silver medal after the coveted seven-hour long Baking and Pastry Arts Competition in the US. (Express Photo)

Q. Baking is an art and science – do you agree?

Absolutely. When my teachers would try to encourage me to pursue a STEM-related career because of my grades, I would tell them baking is the science I am interested in. The way baking intertwines art and science is something I have not experienced anywhere else. There is always something new to discover if you are able to imagine it and challenge it, you can create something incredible – and use it to contribute to the special moments in people’s lives.

Q. What are your first memories of baking?

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From a very young age, I was very curious. My earliest memories include mixing whatever seemed outlandish or fun and seeing the result – kind of like that one scene in the animation Ratatouille where Remy tries a piece of cheese and a strawberry together and sees fireworks! I would watch the people who cooked for my family and marvel at it. My mother is a single parent, so, my sister and I tried to help around the house as much as possible. That is how we started cooking and baking together, with me, being the youngest, handing over the ingredients duty. I was inspired by watching chefs like Nigella Lawson and Rachel Allen, and so when my sister went away to college, I was able to try recipes completely by myself, and I fell in love with it all. I was drawn to baking not just because of my enormous sweet tooth but also because of the comfort, precision and exactness it brings to me. It simultaneously engages and calms my mind, while allowing me to express myself creatively. I was never very good at art, but give me a piping bag and suddenly my hands have the dexterity to bring my imagination to life that I would struggle to sketch with a pencil. My toughest bake was probably making macarons in a janky home oven with one broken handle – but with a lot of research and trial and error – they finally came out decent!

Q. You were quite clear in your choice of career – how were you able to make such an informed decision?

I knew I wanted to become a pastry chef for as long as I can remember, but I too had doubts in the 12th grade when I found something I loved a lot – the field of psychology. But whenever I was troubled or anxious, I would bake or cook, and an internship at the Oberoi New Delhi, where a chocolatier mentored and guided me through my first professional kitchen experience, made it clear: I was meant to be a baker.

Devika Manchanda with multiple awards and distinctions, and a rich experience as a pastry cook and chocolatier in New York, Philadelphia, Florida and New Delhi dreams of opening her own restaurant in India. (Express Photo)

Q. Growing up, how integral was food and the conversation around it in your family?

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I grew up in a small but supportive family originally from Chandigarh. It was here that my love of food began, as food and hospitality is such a big part of Punjabi culture. I then went on to complete my studies in Gurgaon, at the Shri Ram School Aravali where I founded the Culinary Society. The multicultural environment, the budding food scene in Delhi, and trips planned around food made me fall in love with it.

Q. India is a country of diverse food, but baking is considered a Western import. What do you think?

India and its flavours have been a continuous source of inspiration for me whenever I am trying to create something new. The knowledge of spices, traditional cooking techniques, but most importantly, a deep respect for ingredients and local produce – growing up in India has ingrained in me the belief that every meal is a gift.

Devika Manchanda won the gold medal in the 5-hour long competition and went on to represent the state of New York at the National Leadership and Skills Conference in Atlanta, Georgia. (Express Photo)

India now has a growing food scene, pastry included, but it is still hard to pursue a professional career in the field. We had a tough time sourcing the finances/student loan for my education, often being turned away from well-reputed banks because it is not considered a STEM-related or traditional career path. I hope to change the perception of the hospitality and food field in India.

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