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Journalism of Courage
“Shimle ni vasna, Kasauli ni vasna, Chambey jaana zaroor (I won’t settle in Shimla or in Kasauli, but I must go to Chamba for sure)”.
Prem Lal, the owner of a shop near Chamba’s ancient Laxmi Narayan Mandir notes the irony of this popular Himachali folk song that celebrates the temple town. Even as it invites all to come to Chamba, reaching it is an impossible task, he says. “The roads are treacherous over their best stretches. Then there are others where there is no road at all, just slush.”
A month ago, in a pre-poll flurry, Prime Minister Narendra Modi inaugurated two ambitious hydel projects in the district, apart from several PM Gram Sadak Yojna projects. However, as Prem Lal puts it, no one is impressed. “At the fag end of the BJP government’s tenure, PM Modi suddenly remembered us, and inaugurated some road and repair projects here. But we have been dealing with those dangerous roads for five years,” he says.
The owner of a nearby stationery store, refusing to identify himself, remarks sarcastically that at least Modi’s arrival got them some roads, adding: “I have always voted for the BJP, but this time… Even a gas cylinder costs Rs 1,100, how can we run our homes?… There is not a single problem that Chamba is not facing.”
Villagers reel off issues such as bad roads, poor Internet connectivity, pathetic state of government schools, the absence of primary healthcare facilities, apart from the rising prices.
As a “heritage town” and erstwhile princely state with palaces, ancient temples going back hundreds of years, and handicraft shops for which it is famous — chappals, Himachali topi, embroidered handkerchiefs – Chamba also expected more from the BJP, a party that prides itself on honouring tradition.
People point out how successive governments have failed to develop Chamba as a tourist destination to rival Shimla or Kasauli, despite the district’s natural beauty, ancient architecture and heritage structures.
A trader says: “Most of the heritage structures, dating back 100 years or more, are being renovated without proper permissions or a strict governing law in place. Just a few temples and a palace are now left standing.”
An official from the Chamba Municipal Council said a lot of things were not in their hands. Many of heritage sites were under the jurisdiction of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), he said, which issues notices to violators in case of tampering.
Prior to Modi’s visit, Union minister Anurag Thakur, who belongs to Himachal, made what seemed a hasty bid to put a salve on this resentment by announcing that Chamba would be developed as a “heritage town for international tourists”.
In his speech in October, Modi called Chamba a land of “faith and heritage”, and promised to change how things are run. “Pahaad ka paani aur pahaad ki jawani pahaad ke kaam nahin aati (a hint at the migration from the hills and the exploitation of resources).”
Anil Sharma says they do not have a problem with Modi. “But even if I want him to be the country’s PM and run the government at the Centre, I want someone to solve local issues. I voted for the BJP last time, but is there any explanation for why we still don’t have roads or a fully-functional hospital here? Patients are referred to Tanda, nearly 160 km away. Many die on the way. There are no teachers in schools, and with a poor network, you can’t even talk on the phone. Modi at the Centre doesn’t mean the BJP in the state too,” he says.
Another local agrees. “Chamba is where electricity is produced. Yet, we’re paying heavy power bills. Local youths don’t want to live here any more, as there is no work. For something as basic as a delivery, a pregnant woman has to travel 150 km. Modi as PM is fine, but… Himachal never votes in the same government twice.”
Additional District Magistrate, Chamba, Amit Mehra, said a lot of roads had suffered this year due to the heavy monsoon. “Some roads were repaired, but work is pending in others. Also, construction is not allowed near ancient temples and other heritage sites so telecom towers for better connectivity can’t be installed at many spots.”
Of the five constituencies in the district — Bharmour (ST), Chamba, Churah, Bhattiyat and Dalhousie — the BJP had won four in 2017, barring Dalhousie, where six-time Congress MLA Asha Kumari is seeking re-election this time too.
Besides voter resentment, the BJP is facing rebel trouble in Chamba, where Indira Kapoor, 47, is contesting as an Independent, after her name was first announced and then withdrawn by the party. In 2017, Pawan Nayyar of the BJP had defeated the Congress’s Neeraj Nayar by just 1,879 votes from Chamba. This time, the Congress’s Neeraj Nayar (51), a hotelier and son of former minister Sagar Chand Nayar, is pitted against Neelam Nayyar (60) of the BJP, wife of incumbent MLA Pawan Nayyar.
