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Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), giving it the unique ability to penetrate deeply into the skin, more than other AHAs. While it is naturally found in sugarcane, glycolic acid, which is used in various skin care products and also in superficial skin peels, is synthesised commercially by various techniques, said Dr Sushil Tahiliani, Consultant Dermatology at P. D. Hinduja Hospital & Medical Research Centre, Khar, adding that glycolic acid is usually used for acne, dark patches, acne scars and ‘age reversal’.
In an Instagram post, Dr Chytra V Anand, a dermatologist, wrote, “Glycolic acid is one ingredient most people are afraid to use because it is the strongest AHA,” adding that while all skin types can use it, sensitive skin might get irritated by using this acid, and it is less effective on oily skin as it is a water-soluble acid.
Along similar lines, Dr Tahiliani told indianexpress.com that the ingredient is usually safe in a concentration of 10 per cent or less. “Higher concentrations should only be used under the care of a qualified physician, preferably a dermatologist. Other factors like the pH of the product, integrity, and state of hydration of skin can also affect the safety. Use of higher concentrations inappropriately may cause serious skin reactions, both short term and long term,” he added.
Here are some benefits of glycolic acid, as per the expert:
Youthful skin
Collagen and elastin are found in the skin, wherein collagen provides firmness to the skin and elastin enhances the skin’s elasticity and makes it supple. However, after the age of 30, the production of both substances reduces, making the skin sag. Therefore, the use of glycolic acid improves the collagen and elastin production, giving the skin a youthful look.
Reduces acne scars
Glycolic acid is effective in reducing acne scars, especially if it’s due to hyperpigmentation. Having exfoliating properties, it allows the uppermost layer of the skin to shed faster, leading to more even-toned skin. It also has anti-inflammatory qualities that help inhibit the growth of propionibacterium acnes.
Promotes hydration
Glycosaminoglycans are substances responsible for binding moisture in the skin, thus glycolic acid helps restore these substances in the skin, making it look plumper and smoother.
Removes dead skin cells
Dead skin cells, if not removed, fill the spaces within the skin’s pores. External use of glycolic acid helps remove dead skin cells called corneocytes, giving the skin a fresh and clean look. Since the top layer of the skin tones itself with old brown pigment, glycolic acid also helps exfoliate the pigment to make the skin brighter.
Antioxidant properties
Several free radicals are produced in the body due to pollution and environmental stressors, which cause ageing in the skin. Glycolic acid has antioxidant properties that help keep the skin healthy.
According to Dr Anand, here are some things to keep in mind before using glycolic acid:
*Do not forget to appy moisturiser after applying glycolic acid, as your skin might get drier.
*Always apply SPF after using glycolic acid as your skin is sensitive to sun rays, even more when you use exfoliators.
*You will start seeing results only when you use it for a longer term as it gradually sends signals to the bottom of the epidermis to produce new and healthy skin cells.
*Apply it in your night-time skincare routine for the best results.
Adding to that, Dr Tahiliani said, “Glycolic acid should not be used when skin is dry, itchy, reddish or broken. It should not be used before activities that may involve prolonged sun exposure and should be avoided by individuals with a history of sun sensitivity and diseases like systemic lupus erythematosus.” He concluded that it has not been studied and approved for children less than 12 years old.
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