A beginner’s guide to using retinoids (why, when, who, and how to start)

"Those with sensitive skin, women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and those with certain medical conditions such as eczema or rosacea, should avoid using retinoids, or only use them under the supervision of a healthcare provider," Dr Shweta Agarwal, consultant, dermatology, Apollo Hospitals, Navi Mumbai said

By: Lifestyle Desk

New Delhi | February 14, 2023 10:20 AM IST

3 min read

Retinoid can even treat skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, pigmentary disorders and specific types of cancer. (Source: Freepik)

Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, play an important role in building the immunity of the skin and keeping it healthy. Dr Shweta Agarwal, consultant, dermatology, Apollo Hospitals, Navi Mumbai said that retinoids are known for their ability to regulate skin cell growth and differentiation, and have also been shown to be effective in treating a variety of skin conditions, including acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. However, stronger concentrations of the formula can also cause irritation, dryness, and itching.

As such, one needs to be extremely careful when using retinoids, something Dr Manasi Shirolikar, a dermatologist, also explained in an Instagram post. Take a look at it below:

According to the expert, here are some of the things retinoids help with:

*Boost collagen synthesis (which slows down as we age)
*Decrease pigmentation
*Anti-acne
*Help in reducing acne scars

Adding, Dr Agarwal said that they can also improve the signs of ageing, unclog pores, and make the skin smoother. “Retinoids are generally considered safe for most people to use. However, for those with sensitive skin, women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and those with certain medical conditions such as eczema or rosacea, should avoid using retinoids, or only use them under the supervision of a healthcare provider,” she told indianexpress.com.

The expert further added that retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, so it is important to use sun protection while using them. People with sensitive skin or a history of skin irritation should also exercise caution when using retinoids, as they can cause dryness, redness, and flaking.”

ALSO READ | How to choose the right type of retinol for your skin

As for when to start, Dr Shirolikar suggested starting it in one’s late 20s or 30s, but it can also be started it early or mid 20s, in case of fine lines, wrinkles, age spots or pigmentation. “It can also be used as a preventive measure,” she said, further adding, “If you start it with 1% tretinoin every night, chances are you will see irritation known as retinoid dermatitis,” she said. Thus, start retinol with “a 1% or 2% granactive retinoid as this is gentler on the skin,” said Shirolikar.

She recommended using it twice a week and eventually building it up to alternate nights and then, every night. To start, apply on dry skin and use at night, after cleansing. Make sure to apply a pea-sized amount only.

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ALSO READ | Everything you need to know about retinol, the magic bullet for a blemish-free skin

Dr Shirolikar said retinoids can be applied in any one of the three ways:

*Before moisturiser (penetrates more)
*With moisturiser
*After moisturiser and again with moisturiser on top a.k.a ‘the retinoid sandwich’ (low potential for irritation)

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