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‘It’s our five-generation legacy’: Mohammed Hussain, one of Lucknow’s last silver nagra craftsmen, on preserving the rare craft

The centuries-old craft of silver nagras is fighting for survival amid a changing market.

Mohammed Hussain meticulously crafts pure silver nagrasMohammed Hussain meticulously crafts pure silver nagras (Source: Mohammed Hussain)

In the historic bylanes of old Lucknow, jutti craftsman Mohammed Hussain, 50, meticulously crafts pure silver nagras, continuing a centuries-old tradition that once catered exclusively to the Nawabs in the city. As one of the last guardians of this intricate craft, Hussain carries the weight of a five-generation legacy tracing back to Iran.

“This is our ancestral craft, passed down through five generations,” Hussain told indianexpress.com. “I learned it from my father, Jawwar Hussain, when I was just a child. It’s our heritage, our khandani work,” he said, his voice a mix of pride and concern for the craft’s uncertain future.

Hussain’s family history is tied to the cultural fabric of Lucknow. “Our ancestors were from Iran. They initially settled in Amroha and moved to Lucknow later. Back then, these nagras were made exclusively for nawabs and aristocrats. Today, however, anyone can get them made,” he said.

The intricate process

Creating these silver masterpieces is a painstaking process that demands both skill and patience. “First, we purchase silver from the market. It’s then melted and transformed into sheets. These sheets are cut according to the footwear’s design. After that comes the engraving work, followed by assembly and final shaping. Each pair takes approximately 8-10 days to complete,” Hussain said.

The market for silver nagras has undergone significant transformation over the years.

The cost of a pair begins at Rs 15,000, approximately, and can exceed Rs 30,000, depending on the current price of silver and the weight used. The craftsmanship extends beyond footwear. “While nagras are our primary focus, we also create engravings and sculptures,” Hussain said.

When asked about the design process, Hussain revealed they are flexible. “We create our own designs, but we’re equally comfortable working with specific designs that clients bring to us. The craft has evolved to meet contemporary demands while maintaining its traditional essence,” he said.

Challenges and need for support

The market for silver nagras has undergone significant transformation over the years. “The main challenge today is the scarcity of work. When there’s regular work, there aren’t many problems, but the inconsistency in orders creates financial difficulties,” Hussain told indianexpress.com.

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However, Hussain remains optimistic and sees potential for revival of the craft. “In the past five to 10 years, there has been a renewed interest in this craft. It is something to be proud of, and if someone wants to learn, it’s a valuable skill to acquire,” he said.

For traditional crafts like silver nagra making to survive, Hussain believes visibility is crucial. “What we need most is publicity. If our work is featured in media and social platforms, awareness will grow, and so will demand,” he said.

Creating these silver masterpieces is a painstaking process that demands both skill and patience. (Source: Mohammed Hussain)

A personal mission

For Hussain, preserving this craft goes beyond mere livelihood. “We could have abandoned this work,” he said, “but we chose not to. It’s our five-generation legacy, a tribute to our forefathers. We want to keep this art alive.”

His message to the younger generation is equally passionate: “These arts must survive because they are part of India’s heritage. Many of these crafts are disappearing. Those few of us who remain must work to keep them alive.”

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The survival of traditional crafts like silver nagra-making depends on multiple factors — continued patronage, government support, and most importantly, the next generation’s willingness to learn. As modern fashion increasingly embraces traditional elements, perhaps there’s hope that this ancient craft will find its place in contemporary wardrobes, ensuring its preservation for generations to come.

Swarupa is a Senior Sub Editor for the lifestyle desk at The Indian Express. With a passion for storytelling, she delves into the realms of art & culture, fitness, health, nutrition, psychology, and relationships, empowering her readers with valuable insights. ... Read More


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