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The mid-November nip in the air has long been awaited, especially so by those who live in Mumbai, among the most sultry of
Indian cities. It is a perfect excuse to revisit a now permanent fashion staple — the summer jacket — since warm woollies aren’t for us at all.
Does it sound insane? Is a Mumbai denizen in a jacket absolutely fashion-mad? Not at all. Whether it is our ice-cold offices or the freezing temperatures in our malls and movie theatres, a layer is now a sartorial constant. Cool and breezy evenings have allowed for more outerwear. And fashion lovers, especially jacket lovers, are rejoicing.
The jacket is the season’s biggest story. Of course the colder climes of the north do full justice to winter wear. Every designer and high-street label has racks and racks of jackets in assorted shapes and fabrics. Designer Rohit Bal has just presented an entire gamut of embroidered coats to be worn over heavy lehengas. Tarun Tahiliani is the master of the gilet teamed with a sari, and now a bandhgala-style coat over a dhoti. Stores that range from Burberry (for their famous trench coats) to Zara (chic styles but godawful plastic buttons) are well stocked with their stylish coats.
But there is still a wide pick of lighter blazers that can be enjoyed by all. Abraham & Thakore, who just had a trunk show in Mumbai, have light layers teamed with their saris or cigarette pants. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s metallic-hued diaphanous linen jackets are superbly tailored and still breathable. Even Anokhi has a small collection of casual bandhgala-style jackets in solid colours that can be just thrown over a pair of jeans and a vest.
Men have long enjoyed the glamour of structure and tailoring in their workwear. The corporate environment has turned our men into sartorial superstars, even the unlikeliest candidates are playing with mismatched prints, bright-hued socks, wide cravats, floral pocket squares, slim suits and those gorgeous two-buttoned linen jackets in summer colours.
The ladies’ layer has finally cottoned on. Women — even those whose professions don’t demand corporate wear — are donning
a wrapper.
The big hiccup is in picking the right piece. Choose something that will make you look stylish. A jacket does have the predilection to lift any outfit, it can work with many permutations. But the size or tailoring can make it go all wrong altogether.
So how does one buy a jacket for weather that isn’t exactly cold? The first box to check is to ensure the fabric is breathable and moves easily. Linen and cotton are the materials to look out for, they crease beautifully and look well-worn.
The shoulders must be soft and not restrictive. Jackets without a lining are all the rage, so lucky for us winter-fakers. Experiment with a short jacket, double the chicness and the mobility. I’m looking for a really slim leather biker jacket (now, wouldn’t that be so-cool?).
Try a colour instead. I’m still recovering from how utterly gorgeous Sonam Kapoor’s baby pink coat over an evening dress was on the Zee Cafe show Look Who’s Talking with Niranjan. I almost forgave her for her silly everyone-picks-on-me-cos-I’m-stunning jabber.
A good jacket can have that power.
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