Decoding the 12 grapes tradition: Spain’s New Year ritual for luck and love

“I am 39 years old and this tradition has been part of my life for as long as I can remember. Since I was little, I recall eating the grapes with my family on the 31st of December,” recalls Susana Azorin Madina, a Spaniard currently living in Dubai.

It’s no surprise this tradition has caught on across TikTok and Instagram, with the twist of eating grapes ‘under a table’ gaining popularity. Many creators even claim it has worked for them. However, eating grapes under a table is not part of the tradition, clarifies Madina. “We do not eat grapes under a table, I have never heard of it,” she says.

Considered to be the birthplace of the custom, the Puerta del Sol celebration is the largest of its kind in Spain, drawing tens of thousands of people at midnight to participate in the tradition of eating 12 grapes in sync with the 12 chimes of the Royal Post Office clock on the Real Casa de Correos building.

How did the tradition find its way to Spain?

Marcelino Lominchar, author of Historias de la historia de España, explains in a LinkedIn conversation: “In the mid-19th century, Spain’s aristocracy adopted a French holiday tradition of drinking champagne and eating grapes, a luxury only the wealthy could afford. By 1894, even Prime Minister Cánovas del Castillo was reported to have marked the end of the year this way. Meanwhile, the public had a different custom, a rather rowdier one. On January 5, they would cause a commotion demanding gifts from the Three Wise Men and in the process, get drunk. However, in 1896, Madrid’s mayor introduced hefty fines to stop the disturbances. In response, people moved their celebrations to New Year’s Eve and started eating grapes during the clock chimes at Puerta del Sol, creating what we now know as the ‘12 lucky grapes’ tradition.”

Christmas celebration at Puerta del Sol Madrid. (Photo: madrid-traveller)

In 1909, a large surplus of Dominga grapes from Alicante’s Vinalopó region led to a marketing campaign where the ‘12 lucky grapes’ were given away for free, helping to establish a tradition that has now lasted over a century.

Why Puerta del Sol? What is its significance?

Puerta del Sol is a public square that was one of the original seven gates of Madrid – it is the only one that has not survived. In the 18th century, King Ferdinand VI commissioned the construction of a new headquarters for the Postal and Courier Service, giving it the name Royal Post Office (Real Casa de Correos) at Puerta del Sol. The Royal Post Office, however, did not have a clock. But its neighbour, the Church of Buen Suceso, did—a clock that marked the hours. When the church was demolished in 1854, it became essential to place a clock on the Royal Post Office building, as it was the headquarters for postal and courier services. To achieve this, a small tower was built on the façade, featuring a clock with three faces topped by the bells from the demolished church. But the clock was so faulty that each face displayed a different time.

To rectify this, 11 years later, a clockmaker in London, José Rodríguez Losada, appeared. He decided to gift a clock that soon gained great fame for its punctuality. As Lominchar points out, “This punctuality is one of the reasons why the tradition of eating grapes at Puerta del Sol became so popular. What better place to celebrate than under a clock renowned for its accuracy?”

What kind of grapes should one eat?

“You can use any grape, but there’s something called the ‘lucky grapes’. Those are the green, round ones. We place the 12 grapes in a glass or on a plate,” says Madina. “Once you have finished with the grapes, it’s tradition to make a toast with your glass. We usually drink champagne. You always have to make a wish after eating your grapes and before taking a sip of champagne, that’s important,” she adds.

Twelve ‘lucky grapes’ placed in a glass or on a plate. (Express Photo)

“There is also another tradition where you have to wear something red. Usually, it’s red underwear, which is considered a good charm for romance. But if you don’t want to wear that, just make sure you’re dressed in something red,” Madina says.

SpainSays, a marketing agency from Spain, in an Instagram conversation shared a unique detail, “Interestingly, some people opt to eat something other than grapes, like olives, candies or even raisins. The essence of the tradition lies in the number and the timing, not necessarily the specific food.”

Could eating grapes on New Year’s pose a choking risk?

“Eating grapes too quickly can prove to be a choking hazard,” says Komal Motwani, a language trainer from Malaga, Spain, adding, “One can opt for seedless grapes without the skin to minimise any risks.”

Beyond its cultural significance, this tradition also gives a boost to the economy. “Supermarkets in Spain sell canned grapes, and even restaurants curate special menus for those looking to celebrate outdoors with their families, ” she adds.

She also shares that it is common for people to end their celebrations with something sweet, often churros. “Breakfast spots open quite early on January 1,” she says.

It is common to end the New Year’s night with churros.

Beyond Spain, the 12 grapes tradition has also found its way to many Latin American and Caribbean countries, where cultural ties to Spain have kept the ritual alive and thriving. Whether you are in the heart of Madrid or celebrating from afar, the 12 grapes remind us that no matter where we are, we are all bound by the same universal desire — love, luck, and a fresh start.

So, as the countdown begins, make your wish, slip on something red, and raise a glass to the timeless tradition of the 12 lucky grapes.