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Journalism of Courage
Written by Dr Krithi Raviraj Ullal
If you’re a social media crawler, then you must have come across the concept of “skin cycling” that’s trending as a skincare regime that works pretty much like intermittent fasting. Though not a new concept but repackaged by influencers with a new name, it basically involves applying skin products with active ingredients on certain days and letting the skin “rest” on other days. The logic underpinning it is that the skin can breathe and repair itself and may not have reactive symptoms like irritation and inflammation. Basically, you are giving space to your skin and strategising your care routine according to your specific requirements.
The hashtag “skin cycling” has just made an old skin routine relatable to the younger generation and a segment of women who have been trying and testing layers of skin products on themselves for years, trying to find the right regime that suits them. In fact, I have had patients who have tried out so many regimes that the skin damage is irreversible in some of them. So the consciousness of following a skin regime as seriously as we do for the rest of our organs is a good thing. But let me clarify a few things. First, this has to be followed consistently. Second, the regime has to be customised for each individual and third, it has to be done with the dermatologist and clinical creams. The OTC skin solutions may not work for you. Your dermatologist might suggest variations on the method, depending on how your skin responds.
We all know that our skin needs help after we turn 18, depending on factors like the environment we are exposed to, our genetic history and the way our hormones change. That’s why we need a skin regime to factor in these changes. A key ingredient in this adaptation is retinoid, a derivative of Vitamin A, which many do not know about. Of course, a dermatologist will guide you on how much you need and the conditions where you should avoid its use.
What’s the skin cycling routine? Basically, the routine rotates itself between an exfoliator, a retinoid and a moisturiser over four nights. So the first is the exfoliation night, the second is a retinoid night, and the third and fourth are recovery nights, then you repeat the cycle from the fifth night. Remember this is a night routine, to be done just before you go to sleep.
First night: This is for exfoliation or removing dead skin cells from the surface layer of your skin. The exfoliating cream must have glycolic acid, which is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), or salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It loosens your skin barrier to receive the next product, lets it penetrate the skin deeply and work efficiently. Keep it on for 30 minutes and then rinse off, pat yourself dry again and do not apply anything, not even a moisturiser. Most Indians make the mistake of exfoliating their skin with face scrub everyday, causing redness and inflammation of the skin. Frequent exfoliation also destroys the skin barrier, which protects you from the harsh effects of the environment and seals in the moisture. I recommend the chemical peels suggested by the dermatologist than any shop-shelf face scrub. You can only moisturise the next morning, use your face wash and sunscreen.
Second night: Retinoids are meant for short contact therapy and should not be left on the skin for more than half an hour. Usually you get Retinol OTC but any dermatologist will recommend Retinoid Ester. A word of caution here. Retinoids can be very irritating when you are first introduced to them, especially if you have sensitive and reactive skin. So take the graded approach, beginning with a mild variant and going up gradually. You could moisturise sensitive areas, like those under your eyes and the corners of your nose. Retinoid should be given three days to work. It regenerates skin cells, reduces fine wrinkles, increases collagen and sebum production, stimulates micro blood vessels, decreases age spots and rough patches.
Third and fourth night: These two days you must moisturise your skin. Use a cream rich in ceramides to improve the skin microbiome and renew your skin barrier. Cleanse your skin before applying a moisturiser, and leave it on.
Build a consistency of routine so that you have a healthy skin barrier. According to a review published in January 2018 in the Indian Journal of Medical Research, the skin barrier protects you from infection, harsh chemicals and allergens. Skin cycling may seem like a fad but it restores basic skin health. Should you have other complexities, this regime makes it easier for a dermatologist to do further therapies.
(Dr Ullal is Secretary, Kochi Dermatological Society)
