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The Ambrosial Potato

Cooper’s in Gurgaon serves up extremely serviceable American fare

Given that the Oscars have just concluded,we decided to celebrate Chirstoph Waltz’s win for the spaghetti Western,Django Unchained,by eating some good old-fashioned steaks and grills. Despite the fact that the movie saw people eating more bullets than food,we made our way to Cooper’s Bar and Grill,newly opened in Gurgaon. The restaurant is a fairly large space,with tonnes of natural light (obviously only during the day) illuminating a very old-school interior — complete with brick walls,wooden flooring and comfortable furniture.

The menu is a typical grill joint bill of fare,with a few interesting additions and the now “staple” pizza and pasta alternatives. Without much ado,we order Chipotle BBQ Wings as a homage to tradition,and Lamb Bitox as starters,and recline,trying to avoid the sounds of Abba from the speakers. By the mercifully short time in which Aerosmith makes its advent,our starters appear and we decide to eat for the moment. The chicken wings are palatable (though a little tame,given our decidedly masochistic tendencies in degree of spiciness),while the accompanying blue cheese dip is excellent,so strong as to be called indigo. The bitox — minced kebabs,an unusual touch in a grill menu — are tender and juicy and a pleasantly simple homage to the virtues of lamb meat.

Picking the mains proves to be more of a challenge and it is here that the smiling service staff display excellent,well,service. They have a refreshingly comprehensive knowledge of the menu and recommend dishes with an alacrity rarely seen. Upon their suggestion,we go with the Bombay Rib eye and the rather hokey-named Taco vs Basa. The latter,when it appears,turns out to be a grilled basa fillet,covered in a crust of crushed taco shells,accompanied by a basmati and wild rice pilaf.

The fish is fresh,well-cooked and flavoured. While our companion,perhaps less cornier than us,prefers the fish sans its crunchy shell,we find it an interesting play of texture and flavors. The steak is more belligerent,and requires some vigorous working of the jaws,though complemented well with jus and kasundi. The burnt garlic mash it reposes on,however,is what gets us truly lyrical. Simple and poignant,this gloriously buttery amalgamation of potatoes and garlic is what dreams are made of. Or to put it more simply,the best mashed potatoes we’ve ever eaten.

Meal for two: Rs. 1,500 (including taxes)

Address: 33,DLF Star Tower,Sector 30,Gurgaon

Contact: 0124-6546001

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  • Django Unchained Oscars
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