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Journalism of Courage
Welcome to the fantasy kingdom nestled at the foothills of Kisama – a portmanteau derived from Kigwema (Ki) and Phesama (Sa), the two Angami Naga villages whose lands were acquired to create the heritage village. Even before the festivities kick off with the beating of the traditional gong, unsuspecting tourists, both foreign and domestic, are hypnotised by the vibrancy of colours and character. Fresh cold mountain winds, stony winding roads cut on a hilly terrain, smoke billowing from the traditional Naga huts, known as Morungs, aroma of sticky rice and maize being cooked or fermented to be served as food and brew, natives draped in ethnic weaves posing with/for their guests or performing their tribal songs and dances, and the occasional booms of muzzle guns fired by Konyak Nagas – all sum up to create a mystical world, removed from the reality that is Nagaland today.
The creation of Kisama as a heritage village to showcase Nagaland in its entirety is probably one of the best things to have happened to the state in recent history. Notwithstanding the criticism, Kisama and the festival it so regally hosts every year have put Nagaland on the world map and into the international tourism circuit. It has inspired neighbouring states to emulate the ‘Festival of Festivals’ as the Hornbill festival is dubbed, but not with matching success.
Nagaland is home to several tribes which have their own distinct festivals, most revolving around agriculture and Kisama is the place to witness them all. Indigenous games, war dances of forefathers, songs and dances invoking the blessings of indigenous gods, lores, looms, crafts and cuisine – all are brought together in a melange of cultural extravaganza under one roof. “The experience is intoxicating,” one German photographer notes, his breath betraying intoxication of the brew kind.
Sheetal Savio, a businesswoman from Mumbai, on her first visit to Nagaland and the Hornbill Festival, was fascinated by the way the Nagaland government showcases the entire state in one place. “You get the feel of the entire state in one festival,” she says of the Hornbill event. “Every state of India has so much we don’t know about, even the state we live in,” Savio observes while lauding the concept of the Hornbill festival at Kisama.
Jesal Kanani, a short story writer also from Mumbai, said sitting among the Naga tribals and watching the performances in the “small” amphitheatre was an amazing experience. Kanani says she expected the event to be more crowded and much bigger in terms of area, but adds that though the area was small, “it seemed a lot more inclusive. It’s not like sitting in a box and watching people perform.”
Both the ladies from Mumbai found the Nagas to be “extremely nice and warm people”.
55-year-old Raelene, a retired librarian from Australia was left immensely impressed by the colourful culture of the Nagas and she too lauded the concept of Kisama, terming it as “spectacular”.
Kisama, the Naga Heritage Village was established and commissioned by the Government of Nagaland in keeping with its tourism policy adopted in year 2000, to promote the cultural heritage of Nagas and to encourage inter-tribal interaction. Envisaged as an all-inclusive village in a natural setting hosting the morungs of the 16 recognised Naga tribes, Kisama became the venue for the festival in 2003. The heritage village though has lost its initial charm with multiple concrete structures erected over the years making the venue congested and spoiling the panoramic view for shutterbugs.
While the first year at Kisama was all about ethnic culture and traditions, over the years a plethora of events have been included to add to the entertainment factor. Nagas’ tendency to ape the west has sullied the original concept of the festival. Choirs and western song and dance performances in the inaugural programme have adulterated the rustic charm of Naga culture. As one Tourism department official, eager not to be named, rues, “the event has become too commercial over the years”. Interestingly, it is the Naga culture in its originality that continues to be the main pull for foreign and domestic tourists alike. While the festival has lost its charm for locals, there has been an impressive increase of tourists. The 2017 edition has surpassed the highest foreign tourists’ arrival of 1646 last year and highest domestic tourists’ attendance of 19690 in 2015.
It is probably because the tourists see Nagaland and its ‘festival of festivals’ as a rural and ethnic experience that the pathetic road conditions of the state go unmentioned in their testimonies. It seems to add to their off-road experience, a part of the whole tribal Naga-package. With nothing to show in terms of infrastructural development, the Nagaland government heavily relies on the vibrant activities of Naga forefathers and half-clad tribesmen to wave the magic wand and hypnotize visitors.
Citizens of Nagaland who have to live with the reality of shoddy infrastructure every day largely prefer giving Kisama a miss due to bad roads and traffic congestion. With Christmas approaching in this ‘Christian state’ and the government unable to disburse salaries for many, the Kisama experience, where food is sold at exorbitant prices, is also not affordable for many of the locals.
Coming to food, Kisama also provides a one-of-a-kind cuisine experience to tourists. A meat-gorging race, Nagas take pride in their cuisine. And the smoked meat- pork, beef and of other exotic creatures served with local sticky rice and hot ‘chatuni’ add to the Naga experience for tourists as much as the crafts and weaves do. The more adventurous visitors get to savour roasted grasshoppers and such. Ask the tourist guides and they will narrate how some tourists, foreign and Indian both, get away from their groups to taste the otherwise forbidden and tabooed food, like dog and snake meat. Nothing of course rakes in more moolah than the local rice-brew which both locals and tourists enjoy.
The food-experience is enriching, observes Jesal Kanani, who herself is a vegetarian and stuck to her non-meat diet even in Kisama. “I love the food of the Nagas. It’s very healthy food and amazing in terms of how balanced their diet is.”
Kanani says she has no issues with the Naga people eating meat of dog. “It is their dietary choice, its part of their culture. I don’t see why anyone should have any problem with that as long as they don’t torture the animals while killing.”
While food is priced pretty high, the Hornbill festival is a foodie-heaven. Added to the ethnic dishes, which beg patience to get accustomed to, a wide range of fusion food is available to suit everybody’s taste. Demand for organic Naga food and the lucrative avenue it provides in Kisama has given birth to many new dishes.
The 10-day Hornbill Festival concludes on Sunday and tourists get ready to depart with fascinating experience and memories. There have been usual complaints about lack of proper service at hotels, a bike belonging to a tourist stolen, some grumbles about roads, but overall the tourists are all praises about the Kisama affair. But for the hosts, life is far removed from the fantasy of the Kisama village. Locals claim that the few patches of good roads prepared in haste for the big tourism event, will depart with the tourists.
Given the success of the Hornbill Festival year after year, one would expect it to have provided impetus to development in the state. But as anyone, who has visited Nagaland for more than once, would tell you, nothing much has changed over the years. And once the Kisama magic wears off, the reality hits hard.
