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Journalism of Courage
IT’S ONE OF THE MOST ENDURING cliches in the history of fashion. When Coco Chanel created the little black dress out of modest tweeds, little did she know that she had created a fashion statement that would last well over eight decades. Circa 2006, dresses are back in fashion, and how!
The launch of the Parisian brand’s 2006/7 global cruise collection in New York saw an evo-cation of the enduring style statement. Chanel’s chief designer Karl Lagerfeld has played up the ubiquitous tweed with large jacquard patterns, and embellished it with ribbons and sheer painted muslins that give the impression of grafittis. It’s a take-off on the classic monochro-matic little dress, only it’s been jazzed up to fit into the global fashionista’s wardrobe. So silks, chiffons and taffetas mingle with tweeds. The body of the dress is shorter, fitted with a slight flare for greater comfort, and the palette is allevi-ated by the presence of brilliant emerald greens or jewelled stones or pearls as embellishments.
The trend is not limited to the West. In India too, designers vouch for the growing popularity of the dress. ‘‘They are the next big thing in the fashion scene. It’s going to peak during the coming spring-summer season,’’ says Ashish Soni. The Delhi-based designer has been busy with prepa-rations for his show at the upcoming New York fashion week in September, and a considerable part of his collection comprises dresses in leather and silk, and what he terms the informal variety—jersey dresses. ‘‘Items like collared shirts and tunic dresses are going to be back in a big way,’’ he says. While shorter dresses will be in vogue, cocktail gowns also have an equally strong mar-ket, predicts Soni.
At their last outing at the India Fash-ion Week, Mumbai-based designers Shane and Falguni Peacock were picked up by Harrods, one of London’s toniest departmental stores. What probably tilted the verdict in their favour was their eclectic collec-tion of dresses. Their clientele, which include names like Nawaz Modi Singhania, wife of entre-preneur Gautam Singhania, claim that dresses are the duo’s forte. ‘‘Dresses are picking up in In-dia because the world over, Indian fashion is drawing a lot of attention. This gives designers an incentive to move out of the niche domestic mar-ket.
Besides, with the kind of climate India has, dresses are convenient for the cosmopolitan crowd,” says Shane. Their pick includes crepes and satins, besides georgettes and chiffons. ‘‘Animal prints are in, but the colours for the season to come will be more subdued,’’ he says.
The main reason behind the popularity of the dress is that it caters to a cross-section of clien-tele. ‘‘I have customers between the age groups 16 and 50 coming in for dresses,’’ says Charu Sachdeva, who heads TSG Marketing Interna-tional, the company responsible for bringing Italian high-end luxury brand Moschino to Mumbai. Recently, the brand sold its limited edi-tion evening dress—an elaborate affair in black—for a whopping Rs 2 lakh.
‘‘That’s how popular dresses are becoming,’’ laughs Sachdeva. While black is the eternal favourite, Moschino’s animal prints and polka dots are also doing equally well. ‘‘Our forecasts say shirt dresses and mesh dresses with net or lace layerings will be the thing to go for in the coming season,’’ she says.
‘‘Dresses can be worn for both formal and in-formal occasions,’’ says Gaurav Gupta. The Delhi-based designer says eastern influences have ensured elaborate drapes in dresses as well. ‘‘Even though it’s the military, more edgy look that’s popular, drapes give a more feminine look to the ensemble. For a formal look, jersey dresses with drapes are the thing to opt for,’’ he advises. So what are you waiting for? Dress it up.
