‘I want to create India’s first super brand’: Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee opens up about his ‘mission’

Tell us about ‘Namaste Mickey’, and the story behind its conceptualisation.

I wanted to bring the worlds of Sabyasachi and Disney together through ‘Namaste Mickey’. The inspiration came from India’s miniature paintings and heritage crafts and one of Disney’s most iconic characters. The piece is painted by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation and embroidered by the artisans from the Sabyasachi ateliers. In the artwork, Mickey Mouse is portrayed in traditional Indian attire and jewellery, against the backdrop of the iconic Taj Mahal, surrounded by tropical flora and fauna — a coming together of the East and West.

Can you elaborate on the inspiration, the reason for choosing Mickey over the many other Disney characters, the jewellery he is wearing, and the reason for opting for Taj Mahal as the backdrop?

As a designer, my mission has been to create modern heirlooms. Be it a necklace, a handbag or a sari, my creations are made to stand the test of time. It’s why I’m drawn to the icons. Mickey Mouse is an icon and one of my first memories of Disney. The Taj Mahal because it’s another icon. The rest flowed from there, inviting Mickey into the Sabyasachi world of heritage, culture and craft.

What are the quintessential Sabyasachi elements used to create the work?

This was a truly collaborative effort made across our ateliers and art studio. The hands who made this piece — the artists from the Sabyasachi Art Foundation, along with the embroiderers and jewellery craftspeople from our ateliers are what makes it quintessentially Sabyasachi.

‘Namaste Mickey’ created by Sabyasachi Mukherjee. (Photo: PR handout)

Did you grow up watching a lot of cartoons? Tell us about your favourite one(s).

I grew up in the 70s, when there was no Internet, so cartoon time on TV was sacrosanct. I still remember weekends spent with Doordarshan and my favourites were always Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck.

You are one of the most well-known and sought-after designers across the world. How would you describe your design journey until now?

Early on, I realised that India has such a deep history and heritage of luxury, craft and art, yet we weren’t represented on the international stage. I have worked towards this from the beginning, and continue to. I want to create India’s first super brand and for me, that remains the mission.

This successful journey must also come with its share of downs, especially criticism on social media. How do you deal with such moments?

Everyone has a right to their opinion. You just have to know who you are, what you do and why you do it.

You decided to step away from fashion shows many years ago — a platform used by both established and young fashion designers to showcase their designs and creativity. Why?

I didn’t step away from fashion shows but I did step away from India fashion weeks as I didn’t see how it was contributing to either building my brand or business. I decided to start launching my collections on Instagram, which was pretty new at the time but I realised it had such incredible reach that it was a great way to democratise my collections and share it with the world.

You have flagship stores outside India, too. What is your ultimate vision for the label Sabyasachi.

My mission is simple, to take the best of Indian craft to the world, even as I keep platforming the best of Indian craft to India. I look at the global luxury market today and I’m so deeply disappointed that a country like ours with such a rich and incredible history of luxury doesn’t have a single brand that has broken through. I want to change this narrative.

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