📣 For more lifestyle news, click here to join our WhatsApp Channel and also follow us on Instagram
Tags:
Journalism of Courage
If day one of the Amazon India Couture Week 2015 was all about drama, dazzle and density of colour, then Day Two was diametrically different. It was a highly anticipated show given that it was International Woolmark Prize winner Rahul Mishra’s debut in couture and a show in India after almost two years. But as we noticed the sparse ramp with no frills and no lavish set (we are still reeling under the hangover of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s show), it seemed clear that Mishra wanted all eyes on the clothes. According to the designer’s note, the collection “Tree of Life”, took inspiration from “the multi-tasking modern woman, in terms of strength and fragility”. Buoyed by that brief, expectations were high as soon as the first model for the show, Kanishtha Dhankar, took the ramp dressed in an off-white sheer long dress with chintz-inspired embroidery in the same hue. The next few ensembles — light and breezy silk organza jackets paired with sheer palazzos, long kurta-style dresses, Chanderi jackets with skirts — were simple and elegant.
Given his international exposure, it seems the designer was looking to create outfits with international influences and strong traditional Indian elements. And on those grounds, it wasn’t a bad score. But the silhouettes — long sheer jackets worn over skirts, long dresses with asymmetrical hemlines, sari-jackets — were familiar and in many cases it felt as though the designer’s debut Paris collection had got an Indian extension. It was a feeling of déjà vu seeing a top with sheer panels around the midriff with a big motif. There’s nothing wrong with taking a successful point from a previous collection forward but we wish the designer had gone further with it. The sporty elements meant to address women on the move, were restricted to just zipper detailing, pockets, a bomber jacket and jersey sweatshirt.
Watch Video
The white and beige hues progressed to black and then out of the blue came in a capsule of colour-rich ensembles in Benarasi silk. The fluidity of collection and the way the colour palette and surface ornamentation was headed suddenly met an abrupt speed breaker and the collection changed course. As individual capsules, it made sense but put together it felt as though Mishra wanted to say he can do bridal, a mainstay of couture, just as well. The lehengas, thankfully, didn’t deviate too far from the mood board, in this case, functional couture. The gold hand embroideries were muted and there was no excess in the collection. As always the designer’s love for Indian handloom came through as the collection was rich in silk, organza, Maheshwari, Benarasi and Chanderi. Mishra’s signature style was there and we liked his attempt at Indian couture with an underlying comfort factor but we did come back feeling a bit underwhelmed. But then, there’s always another season.
