How fashion designer Sanjukta Dutta honoured Zubeen Garg and Assam’s handloom heritage through her creations: ‘Immortalising his memories in textile form’

In an exclusive conversation with indianexpress.com, she speaks about her latest showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week, her design journey, and her touching tributes to late musicians Zubeen Garg and Bhupen Hazarika. Read edited excerpts below:

Q.⁠ ⁠Whether showcasing in Paris or New Delhi, your designs always have a deep connection with your home state. Take us through your design process.

Sanjukta Dutta: My design process always starts with emotion — and that emotion is Assam. I draw inspiration from our landscape’s colours, our songs, and the rhythm of our looms. Every piece begins as handwoven cloth from my weavers. I collaborate with them to reinterpret classic Assamese motifs in a way that is modern yet rooted. The idea is to let the fabric speak, preserving weaving traditions while updating drape, silhouette, and details for an international audience.

Q. ⁠We would also love for you to share your journey — from your first stint to your latest collection, Gadhuli.

Sanjukta Dutta: My journey began with a simple desire: to revive Assam’s handloom industry and give it global recognition. Initially, people outside Assam hardly knew about the mekhela chador. Over the years, I’ve taken it to prominent international fashion weeks. Each collection marks a new chapter, but Gadhuli is special — it represents transition, the confluence of day and night, tradition and modernity. It’s deeply personal and reflects how far the Assamese mekhela chador has come.

Q. ⁠At Lakmé Fashion Week, you paid heartwarming tributes to late singers Zubeen Garg and Bhupen Hazarika. Tell us about the saree featuring the Mayabini singer.

Sanjukta Dutta: Zubeen Garg was more than a musician; he was the heartbeat of Assam and shall always be. The mekhela chador dedicated to him carries his portrait and excerpts from his lyrics woven into the fabric. It’s my way of immortalising his memories in textile form. We also marked Bhupen Hazarika’s centenary with a live violin performance by Sunita Bhuyan. Music and weaving are both languages of the soul, and Gadhuli became the space where they met.

Models showcasing Sanjukta Dutta’s latest collection at Lakme Fashion Week. (PR handout)

Q. ⁠Why did you decide Neelam Kothari Soni to be your showstopper this time? But also, why do you feel the need to have a celeb face closing your shows?

Sanjukta Dutta: Neelam embodies grace, dignity, and timeless beauty; these qualities align perfectly with Gadhuli. I’ve always admired her understated elegance. When she wore my creation, she brought the collection’s spirit to life. As for celebrity showstoppers, I don’t see them as a necessity but rather as a way to amplify the craft. A known face increases visibility for the artisans behind the work. My purpose is always to make the world look towards Assam and its weavers.

Q.⁠ ⁠Not many people know about the mekhela chador. Tell us about it, and the correct way to wear it (especially the pleats).

Sanjukta Dutta: The mekhela chador is a two-piece traditional Assamese attire. The mekhela is the lower drape, pleated and tucked at the front, while the chador is draped over the shoulder like a saree pallu. What makes it unique is its structure — regal yet comfortable. The pleats are hand-set, giving a graceful flow. Wearing it is almost like performing an art — precise yet poetic.

Q.⁠ ⁠Over the years, however, have you found more people embracing the garment beyond your state/culture?

Sanjukta Dutta: Yes, beautifully. Women across India and internationally wear the mekhela chador. Brides choose it for weddings, and designers experiment with fusion styles. That’s my goal: for Assamese textiles to travel beyond geography.

Q.⁠ ⁠What about the younger generation? How much are they really aware of the traditional outfit, outside of the state?

Sanjukta Dutta: Earlier, traditional wear was seen as festival attire. Now, young people appreciate its artistry and pride. I see girls pairing mekhela chadors with jackets, belts, or crop tops — a beautiful evolution. Fashion should grow with every generation while preserving its essence.

Q. ⁠You mostly work with silks. Where do you source your raw materials from?

Sanjukta Dutta: All my silks are made on my own looms in Assam. I work mainly with Pat silk, Eri, and Muga, each prized for texture and natural sheen. From reeling to weaving, my team of skilled artisans upholds traditional techniques. Every weave carries the purity, warmth, and spirit of human craftsmanship.

Q.⁠ ⁠Bollywood often shows different cultures/ethnicities and their outfits. But not many actors wear the mekhela or the gamosa. Your views on the same.

Sanjukta Dutta: True, and I want to change that. India’s wardrobe is vast, yet representation is limited. The mekhela chador and gamosa are symbols of Assamese identity and deserve mainstream celebration. Some celebrities have embraced them, but there’s more work to do. I hope it becomes as iconic as the saree someday.

Q.⁠ ⁠Who exactly is your target audience, and are any Bollywood celebrities a part of your clientele?

Sanjukta Dutta: My audience values authenticity and craftsmanship, women who want to wear stories, not just garments. I’ve been fortunate to have Priyanka Chopra, Dia Mirza, Manushi Chhillar, and Neelam Kothari Soni wear my work. But my true pride is seeing Assamese women from small towns wear my creations with pride.

Q.⁠ ⁠What is your ultimate aim as a designer?

Sanjukta Dutta: To keep Assam’s looms alive. I want weavers, especially women, to gain dignity, stability, and global recognition. If my designs carry the sound of their shuttles to the world stage, that is success. Fashion, to me, is preservation, not just creation.

Q.⁠ ⁠In a world obsessed with designers like Sabyasachi, Manish Malhotra, or Tarun Tahiliani — how does Sanjukta Dutta ensure staying relevant?

Sanjukta Dutta: By staying true to myself. I don’t compete; my journey is my own. Trends come and go, but roots remain. I stay relevant through authenticity, telling Assam’s story with honesty and pride. My fabrics are felt, not just worn, and that emotional connection is timeless.

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