Fashion industry’s historical preference for specific beauty ideals can limit representation of models, says Ridhi Mehra

Ridhi Mehra opened up about her journey, her experience of working with these supermodels, latest creations, the buzz around showstoppers, inclusivity vis-à-vis the Indian fashion industry and lots more in a free-wheeling chat with indianexpress.com. Read the edited excerpts below:

You completed a decade in the industry last year. How would you describe this journey?

Ridhi Mehra: A decade of Label Ridhi Mehra — this is a huge feat, and emotions are intense. A wave of joy, pride and so many other exhilarating sentiments are washing over me as I internalise this beautiful milestone in my brand’s journey. Having been able to contribute to the narrative of Indian wear for a decade with a creative vision that I have perceived over the years is a genuinely gratifying experience. The label was incepted with the idea of not just introducing affordable luxury into the Indian fashion scene but making it stick among the masses. After 10 years, it is safe to say that I, with my incredible team, pride ourselves on having achieved our goal this far. Ten years of design have been deeply fulfilling. With its equal share of challenges and roadblocks, this design journey has been one filled with immense learning, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

We began with our first collection in 2012 and only moved forth thereon. We now launch 7-8 collections in a year, catering to a myriad of seasons, reasons, and moods. I take pleasure in the fact that we are now 10 years old; alive, thriving, and advancing towards a glorious future. I am genuinely grateful and optimistic, to witness many more such decades realized as milestones in this journey.

Considering the cutthroat competition the Indian fashion industry is known for, how challenging can it be to sustain yourself? What must one keep in mind?

Mehra: I think constant innovation, hard work, and perseverance are what keep you going.

Supermodels Carol Gracias, Indrani Dasgupta (seated), and Ujjwala Raut in creations for designer Ridhi Mehra

Tell us about your latest collection: The Era. What inspired you to pay homage to the supermodels of the days gone by?

Mehra: My vision for this collection was very classic and it instantly took me to the iconic divas of fashion. From the time I started designing, I remember models played the perfect muse for designers and editors in the fashion industry. However, over the years, the supermodel era sadly got lost in India. I truly believe that Indrani Dasgupta, Ujjwala Raut, Carol Gracias, Archana Akil Kumar and Kanistha Dhankhar put India on the global map and the ICONS AW 23 campaign is an ode to the OG Showstoppers. For me, these five women are the epitome of strength, grace, perseverance and extraordinary talent.

They were my inspiration for this collection. Every silhouette, cut, and colour was inspired by what would work for them. I merged their style with our design sensibility, and we came up with the collection. Gautam Kalra helped me style the ensembles to bring the entire vision to life. I believe this is a collection second, and a promise first, ICONS is made to inspire and delight; it’s a tribute, a serenade to the eternal phenomenon called feminine grace.

Have you worked with any of the models before?

Mehra: Yes, I have worked with Kanishtha on several occasions before. It was my first time working with Indrani, Ujjwala, Carol, and Archana, and I loved every bit of working with these graceful yet fierce women.

Models spotlight the craftsmanship and design finesse, directing focus towards the garments’ intricacies, says Ridhi Mehra (Photo: PR handout)

In your press note, you question whether, in the times of celebrity showstoppers, models have been forgotten. But you too have had many celebrities walking the ramp for you. What would you say if asked the same question you pose?

Mehra: While celebrities are being highlighted more because of their reach, I believe that models have not been forgotten. They are still being hired for the runways, campaigns, and editorial shoots and are the face of the brands and still own the fashion industry. As a matter of fact, very interestingly the celebrities we adore today have all walked the ramp at some point as models. Celebrities have walked the ramp for me on several occasions, but models have always been the highlight of my collections.

Also, you use the word ‘unsung’ to describe your muses. Who would you say is responsible for them not being given their due credit?

Mehra: We employed the term ‘unsung’ to characterise the muses, as we perceive a shift in recent years towards emphasising glamour and celebrities. I don’t think there’s a specific individual accountable for their insufficient recognition. Instead, I view it as a natural progression where certain aspects garner more attention while others slightly recede. We are delighted that we’ve consistently maintained an equilibrium between the spotlight on celebrities and the recognition of these models.

How (and why) is a showstopper important? How do they add to a show? And how different is it when it is a celebrity vs a model?

Mehra: A showstopper is pivotal in fashion shows, be it a celebrity or a model. They epitomise the collection’s essence, injecting allure and drama. Their presence elevates anticipation, turning the runway into a dynamic stage. Showstoppers generate buzz, expanding brand visibility.

When it comes to showstoppers, the distinction lies between celebrities and models. Celebrities inject glamour, personal connection, and media attention, elevating the show’s appeal and reach. Their star power resonates with fans, forging lasting associations with the collection. On the other hand, models spotlight the craftsmanship and design finesse, directing focus towards the garments’ intricacies. Their expertise ensures a seamless presentation, allowing the designs to take center stage. Choosing between the two depends on the show’s intent: celebrity allure or artistic emphasis.

Did it take you long to convince the supermodels to say yes to your campaign or were they eager and willing?

Mehra: The idea was so exciting that it did not take us very long to convince the models. Though there was an initial hitch for some, others were very excited. We are glad that it all worked out and the campaign was such a huge success.

As rightly pointed out by you, models have always been an integral part of the ramp. But the ramp, often, is not as welcoming of them sparking debates about inclusivity. How does the Indian fashion industry fare on this scale? Would you say it is inclusive in all aspects?

Mehra: In recent years, the Indian fashion industry has taken steps towards inclusivity by featuring models of varying body types, skin tones, and backgrounds on the runway. Designers are increasingly recognising the importance of reflecting the diversity of their customer base, and some have made conscious efforts to showcase collections that cater to a wider range of individuals. However, certain challenges remain. The industry’s historical preference for specific beauty ideals can sometimes limit the representation of models who don’t conform to those norms. The Indian fashion industry, like any other, must navigate the fine line between appreciation and appropriation, and ensure that it uplifts cultures rather than commodifying them.

Lastly, what can we expect the fashion trends to be in this season?

Mehra: The fashion trends this season would be brighter colours like red and fuchsia and a lot of glistening gold and champagne with the festive season approaching. Chic and comfortable silhouettes are a must this season. Pantsuits, dramatic capes and pre-draped sarees are a few trends to incorporate this season.

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