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Journalism of Courage
Archana Kochhar, who is widely recognised for her inimitable global design sensibilities, is one of the OG Indian fashion designers who have played a crucial role in cementing Indian fashion’s position on the world map.
In a similar vein, she once again enthralled the audience at the ongoing New York Fashion Week (NYFW) with her show featuring the exquisite ‘Anant’ collection. Combining the elegance of Indian weaves with the modern vision of Indian women and Independent India, Kochhar’s collection is divided into three segments.
“The segment titled ‘Maharashtra Heritage’ celebrates the rich cultural heritage of Maharashtra. The segment ‘Global Resilience’ symbolising globalisation included the global cobalt ‘sari-gown silhouette’, signifying a woman’s resilience in balancing the divine masculine and feminine within. The final segment, ‘Diversity in All Shades’, incorporated delicate pastel hues celebrating the diversity of the female form in all shapes and sizes, a tribute to every woman’s inherent beauty,” the designer shared.
Miss World 1997 Diana Hayden walked the runway as her showstopper wearing an exquisite piece from the collection, which drew inspiration from the rich tapestry of Indian culture and its continuous evolution.
From her NYFW show and latest collection to sustainability in fashion and her design sensibilities, Kochhar recently opened up about everything fashion in an exclusive interaction with indianexpress.com.
What led to the conceptualisation of your latest collection ‘Anant’?
This amazing collection all began with the stunning brocade saris my mom used to own. Her wardrobe was a treasure trove of vibrant colours like blazing orange, royal rani pink, deep Indian blue and lush green. When she left us, I felt a burning desire to keep these timeless saris alive for my daughter and myself. So, I decided to embark on a creative adventure. I took those classic brocade designs and gave them a modern twist. As I dove deeper into this exciting project, I couldn’t help but think about how fashion is always changing and evolving. That reflection inspired me to create something truly special. I wanted to pay tribute to three generations: my mother, myself and my daughter. I wanted to do it with a dash of Indo-Western style that would make these designs stand out in today’s fashion world. So, here’s to the past, present, and future – all woven together in this extraordinary collection!
It is mentioned that the collection honours Indian weaves and evolving silhouettes across three generations of Independent India. Tell us more.
Our NYFW collection is something truly special! We’ve joined forces with the Maharashtra government to work on a one-of-a-kind project – a Paithani makeover like you’ve never seen before. Our mission was to take the classic Paithani fabric and transform it into something that speaks to the modern Indian woman. The NYFW collection is a magnificent fusion of Paithani magic, brocade brilliance, sparkling sequins and eye-catching prints. And we haven’t stopped there! We’ve tailored these designs into contemporary silhouettes about today’s incredible women.
As someone who has also presented her collection digitally, how do you find it different from the physical fashion shows?
We’ve chosen to make a double impact with our collection: one through a captivating digital presentation at NYFW and another with an in-person show in the heart of New York. Our digital showcase leverages the power of videos to bring the rich essence of Indian textiles to life. We’re talking about a potential viewership of 9 million fashion enthusiasts during New York Fashion Week – that’s how massive this is. But we’re not stopping there. The live, in-person show in New York is our chance to connect directly with fashion’s movers and shakers, giving them a hands-on experience with our collection. It’s a dynamic duo of presentations designed to make waves in the fashion world.
What is that one design mantra you swear by?
As a fashion designer, the design philosophy I wholeheartedly adhere to is ensuring that each bride and client wearing my creations experiences comfort and sheer delight. My unwavering design philosophy revolves around the idea that every bride and client should look breathtaking and experience unmatched comfort and sheer delight when wearing my creations. It’s all about weaving together style and pure, unadulterated happiness in every piece I craft.
How do you think the Indian fashion scene is evolving?
The Indian fashion scene has been on an incredible journey of transformation and as a fashion designer, it’s been a thrilling ride to witness. First off, designers are breaking boundaries like never before. They’re fearlessly exploring new silhouettes and patterns, adding a fresh and adventurous twist to our fashion landscape. But it’s not just designers who are changing; it’s also the people who wear these fabulous creations. Clients and fashion enthusiasts are embracing a fusion of contemporary and traditional styles and flaunting it with pride. It’s like a fashion revolution. And guess what? Indian fashion isn’t just making waves at home; it’s conquering the world. Our designers are stepping onto international runways during fashion weeks, showcasing the incredible diversity and creativity of Indian fashion to a global audience. We’re firmly on the world fashion map now. So, hold onto your seats because Indian fashion is evolving in the most exciting ways and the best is yet to come.
What fashion trends do you see going big in the next few months/years?
Fashion is turning back the clock. One can expect a revival of retro-inspired styles that are about to dominate the fashion scene in the next few months and years. From chic pantsuits to groovy bell bottoms and those comfy anti-fit jackets, these classics are here to stay and will be a big part of both fusion and ethnic fashion, not just in India but worldwide. So, if you’re looking for timeless trends, you’re in for a fashionable treat.
What are some new sustainable practices that you’ve adopted in your design process?
As a fashion designer, I’ve embraced various innovative, sustainable approaches within my design process. Over several years, I’ve incorporated eco-friendly textiles and focused my design techniques on creating sustainable attire. For instance, I proudly utilised ‘ahimsa silk’ in one of my collections showcased at New York Fashion Week. This particular silk is crafted and woven without causing harm to silkworms, aligning perfectly with my commitment to sustainability in fashion.
How do you think designers can further promote Indian textiles and weaves?
We’re on a mission to showcase the beauty of Indian textiles and handwoven fabrics to the world. By featuring these stunning creations on both local and global fashion platforms, we’re not just turning heads; we’re also sparking a newfound appreciation for these incredible art forms. But it doesn’t stop there – this approach has the power to make a real difference in people’s lives. With the increased demand for these expertly crafted woven fabrics, we’re not only boosting income but also creating sustainable livelihoods for skilled weavers. It’s a win-win that’s changing lives one beautiful fabric at a time!
What fashion trends you can’t wrap your head around?
I find it quite perplexing when fashion show ensembles are created with such avant-garde designs that render them impractical for every day, ultimately contributing to fashion waste.
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