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Journalism of Courage
Ever heard of a place that doesn’t exist on a map? Well, there certainly is one. Lying between Moldova and Ukraine, this narrow patch of land calls itself the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR), commonly known as Transnistria. Despite being officially unrecognised by the United Nations, the lesser-known breakaway state has its own government, military, and currency, and even a flag.
The origins of this frozen conflict trace back to the early 1990s, following the collapse of the Soviet Union. As Moldova sought independence and considered reunification with Romania, the predominantly Russian-speaking population on the eastern bank of the Dniester River resisted these changes. They were concerned about losing their cultural identity and language rights. In 1990, this region declared independence from Moldova and named itself Transnistria. This declaration led to a brief but violent war in 1992 between Moldovan forces and Transnistrian separatists, who were supported by the Russian 14th Army. The fighting concluded with a ceasefire, resulting in Transnistria becoming a de facto independent region under Russian military protection.
This self-proclaimed republic, spanning approximately 4,163 square kilometres, despite its unconventional existence, has also made it onto the list of places travellers and their reels.
In recent years, Transnistria’s tourist footfall has doubled. A 2020 report estimated that around 20,000 visitors flock to Transnistria each year, often as part of a day trip from Moldova. As a result of its growing popularity, it also released its first-ever travel guide in Russian and English.
Given that Transnistria remains under a substantial Russian military presence, several social media influencers recommend exercising caution when exploring the region. According to their accounts, checkpoints are where one needs to be cautious. A social media influencer who goes by the name Drew Bensky, during his travel to this lesser-known state, recommended, “This isn’t your typical border-crossing. One wrong move and things could get messy.” Visitors are, therefore, requested to remain respectful and adhere to local guidelines.
What to see
A visit to Tiraspol, Transnistria’s capital, is like travelling back in time. The city is a living museum of the Soviet era — with grand boulevards, Lenin statues, and red-star emblems still proudly on display. History buffs will find plenty to explore near the main parade square, where a war memorial featuring a Soviet tank commemorates victory in the Great Patriotic War (World War II). Nearby, a newer monument pays tribute to the victims of the 1992 Transnistrian conflict.
What to buy
Tiraspol’s souvenir shops are full of curiosities. Pick up PMR-themed memorabilia — posters featuring the coat of arms, flag, and lyrics to the national anthem. These make for quirky, conversation-starting keepsakes from a place that doesn’t officially exist on maps.
What to eat
Transnistrian cuisine is influenced by Moldovan, Ukrainian, and Russian cuisines. Must-try dishes include mămăligă, a comforting cornmeal porridge typically served with cheese, sour cream, or meat; sarmale, cabbage rolls stuffed with pork or beef and rice; and borscht, the region’s beloved beet soup that warms the soul in winter. Wash it all down with a glass of Kvint brandy, one of Transnistria’s proudest exports, distilled right in Tiraspol.
Getting there
The easiest way to reach Transnistria is from Chisinau, Moldova’s capital, which is approximately a two-hour drive by bus or shared taxi. Travellers cross the Bender checkpoint, where they receive a short-term migration card instead of a passport stamp. Keep it safe for exit. A few trains also connect Chisinau and Tiraspol, offering a nostalgic ride reminiscent of the Soviet era. Entry from Ukraine via Odessa was once common but is currently limited due to the war.
