Journalism of Courage
In November 2010,a media-shy Nirav Modi catapulted into the international jewellery scene by becoming the only Indian jeweller,so far,to have his creation featured on the cover of Christies annual Hong Kong auction catalogue. The featured Golconda Lotus necklace eventually fetched $3 million (Rs 16.29 crore). The Mumbai-based jewellery designer,however,outdid himself at last years Sothebys auction in Hong Kong,where his Riviere of Perfection a necklace with 36 flawless white diamonds weighing 88.88 carats together was sold for $5.1 million (Rs 27 crore).
Modi,a third-generation diamantaire,has enjoyed unprecedented success on the world stage. However,he is now looking to wow the Indian market. To achieve the same,the jewellery designer who set up his brand three years ago recently had his first fashion show as part of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) in Mumbai.
The collection showcased at the event comprised a total of 15 sets from Nirav Modis stunning ranges a segment inspired by iconic motifs of the Mughal miniature school of art (the Mughal collection),a range that draws from floral motifs (Fluire line) and one based on the Art Deco movement of the 50s (Sunburst line). Modi says that he gets his cues from nature,art and his surroundings. Functionality too scores high on his list. For instance,when I saw my daughters wear stretchable bangles,albeit the costume jewellery variety,it made me want to create a range of elastic gold bangles that would custom fit all sizes. It took us two years to source the brilliant cut diamonds but it was worth the wait, he says.
What sets 42-year-old Modi apart is his access to rare diamonds. Born into a family of diamond traders,earlier based in Belgium,he learned the ropes of the trade. He then worked with the Gitanjali Group in the US. Apart from gaining access to the American market through his acquisition of jewellery companies such as Sandberg & Sikorski (which owns the bridal jewellery brand A Jaffe),he put in place a network of marketing offices and factories,and liaised with Russian diamond miner Alrosa. Today,his company,Firestar Diamond,is the sole distributor of Rio Tintos Argyle pink diamonds in South Asia. Given our control over sourcing,cutting and manufacturing,designing exquisite pieces became a possibility, says Modi. The diamantaire has also patented certain diamond cuts Endless Cut,where diamonds are cut and set seamlessly to create a continuous halo; and Ainra Cut,where diamond links replace the traditional metal clasps.
This access,coupled with a passion for innovation,has translated into international success,the most recent achievement being a chance to participate in a private exhibition at Londons prestigious Kensington Palace last November. It was an exclusive showing of pink Argyle diamond jewellery that attracted players of international repute,including Chinas Chow Tai Fook jewellery and Londons Graff Diamonds, says Modi. His entry for this years Sothebys auction in Hong Kong will include a 10-carat fancy pink pear ring and a pair of diamond earrings studded with two carat yellow diamonds.
Modi plans to open his first store in Delhi by the year end and one in Mumbai in 2014. We will have gold jewellery in a gold-loving country but the creations will always be diamond centric, he says.
