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Rohet Khannas vision for his gourmet store and cafe,Dolce Vita,included a butchers section stocked with a variety of meat. This included regular fare on Indian tables,such as chicken,mutton and fish,apart from pork and beef. What topped his wishlist,however,was to make rabbit,crocodile,quail and partridge meat available to the Indian consumers. He had to shelve this plan when he was told that it was illegal to sell these varieties.
Our regulars were quite excited by this plan and we even got enquiries for rabbit meat, reveals Khanna,director of operations at Dolce Vita. His plan may not have worked out,but Mumbai market does provide meat varieties that are not seen in Indian kitchens often. For instance,in Dolce Vitas poultry section,duck,turkey and emu are popular selling items. Aurus,Juhu,serves two types of snail dishes: Ragour of Escargots is on the new menu while La Rochelle Escargots is served as a special. San Qi in the Four Seasons Hotel,Worli,serves eel,octopus,Fugu and the controversial Japanese Pufferfish dishes as part of their regular menu.
With the world of gourmet becoming more open to experimentation,even buffalo tenderloin and pork are finding patrons. Earlier,diners shied away from trying these either due to religious reasons or because they doubted the quality. Salt Water Cafes New Zealand Lamb Shanks and beef steaks are popular items and their Swine Dine afternoon is a runaway hit. At 55 East in The Grand Hyatt,the demand for seafood was once confined to pomfret and prawns on an evening out. Now,kingfish steaks,grilled mackerel,yellow tail sushi and smoked salmon are much in demand.
Chicken still tops the list as the most popular item in any restaurants menu, says Chef Ajay Chopra,executive chef at The Westin Mumbai Garden City,Goregaon,whose restaurants Kangan and Prego have seen a rise in their sale of pork and duck. The demand for non-vegetarian fare that isnt generally consumed at home especially pork,duck,beef and imported fish is on the rise, he adds.
While many are still hesitant to try out unusual items,chefs are taking a personal interest in promoting new tastes. Chef Vicky Ratnani,executive chef at Aurus,says,We train our front-of-house staff so they can communicate to the diners what cuts we offer,where the meat is coming from and how it is being prepared.
An important aspect of promoting meats new to the Indian palate includes cooking them in a way that diners are familiar with. At San Qi,shreds of fried pork with bamboo shoots are spiced like a Chinese-style chicken dish. Diners who are unsure of imported fish they havent tried before can also start with the tandoor-baked Chilean Sea Bass. Its about serving them a dish in a way theyre used to,so that they open up to trying the same thing in a different style, says Aditya Ramani,director of restaurant and bars at Four Seasons Hotel.
However,there are times chefs do take the risk. One such example is the Swine Dine at Salt Water Cafe,where pork delicacies that have never been seen on commercial menus in Mumbai are served. This includes pork tongue,belly,shoulder,loin and even a curious ice-cream scoop topped with a crisp stick of bacon.
Swine Dine,for us,is a way of saying lets do something new and make it our thing, says Gresham Fernandes,group executive chef,Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality,which owns Salt Water Cafe . Food is not just something to be consumed,but also to be experienced. Customers are definitely willing to experiment as long as you have your basics right and are going that extra mile, he adds.
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