Greige arrives at WIFW

Her Autumn Winter 2011 collection had natural fabrics in blends of wool,cashmere,linen,cotton and silks. All subtly dressed up,with intricate kantha work and cross-stitching. Not a dot of gilded ornamentation and full marks to her for that. Handloom was textured in ways that rescued it from becoming cliched. Khadi looked as only khadi can — simple,elegant,with woven imperfections,making it glamourous. Loose skirts,easy trousers,structured jackets and dresses with asymmetrical hemlines came down the runway. As did the sari,draped with a structured jacket and a slim belt. Undoubtedly,Kumar’s garments were uniquely Indian in their mind,but in their body they seemed lost. Modernity with Indianness is an uphill climb,but if it is made so obvious — jackets with saris,woven stockings and booties with Indian skirts,then what about the new story that is waiting to be told? That of Indian,as Indian. Not Indian as trying to remain Indian. Kumar’s pallete — earthy,ochre,grey,cream and beige,greige too,with some hues of the Indian red apple,was the best part. The story of Indian textiles struggling to be fashionable needs people like her. But she is yet to resolve that struggle. On the other hand,Gaurav Jai Gupta,minted a few seasons back,seems to have got his fashion signature right. The Handloom lobby,which had arrived for Neeru Kumar’s show — Laila Tyabji of Dastkar,designer Ritu Kumar,textile expert Rta Kapur Chishti — stayed back for Gupta’s too. What the two designers have in common,despite decades of difference in knowledge,is grassroot work with weavers a painstaking process. Gupta’s collection,made from Phuliya handlooms,yet global in demeanour,looked effortless and wearable. Unhurriedly made up models walking in mocassins underlined that both woven textiles and Jai Gupta aren’t turning away from the limelight soon. Palette? Muted to soft and greige. Greige is here. Will rani pink get an anxiety attack?